Café Altro Paradiso

Posted on June 20, 2016 by Ciasamia

234 Spring St. (between 6th Avenue and Varick St.) 646-952-0828 www.altroparadiso.com

Italian. I love cheese. I just never realized how much until dining at Café Altro Paradiso. Whether a hint or focus of the dish, what they do is absolute wizardry. Take their salami and parmigiano-reggiano. No seriously, take it. I don’t believe tastier cheese has ever passed my lips. The pacchieri di grano arso with chicken and olive ragù offered another opportunity to indulge. This perfect pasta made even more compelling by just a subtle accent of formaggio. The kitchen is equally pesce profound as proven by the seared octopus with chickpea salad and their swordfish (summer squash, pesto trapanese). Every flavor I encountered was a gift, unexpectedly ideal and outrageously captivating. Even the dessert (chocolate and walnut torta with whipped cream) exceeded any possible expectation. The space is unique and inviting, done up in blonde wood and an abundance of curves. The staff moves seamlessly and intuitively throughout, guaranteeing an evening as striking and unforgettable as the perfect piece of you know what.

Boqueria Soho

Posted on May 31, 2016 by Ciasamia

171 Spring St. (between Thompson St. and West Broadway) 212-343-4255, also Boqueria Flatiron 53 West 19th St. (between 5th and 6th Aves, 212-255-4160), Boqueria Upper East Side 1480 2nd Avenue (between 76th and 77th Sts., 212-343-2227) www.boquerianyc.com

Spanish, Tapas. Boqueria has three locations and one menu. Why? I can only imagine they don’t want to mess with mastery. Everything I tasted was adored. So much so, I ordered one dish twice (shout out to the pintxos morunos). These Colorado lamb skewers with pickled shallots and salsa verde were stunningly flavorful. I also indulged in the gambas al ajillo (shrimp, garlic, brandy and guindilla pepper in olive oil). When offered the opportunity to go gambas I will, and their interpretation rocked. As did the pulpo a la plancha. They grill the octopus, then adorn it with fennel and smoked pimentón. It is not unusual to add potatoes, but their design is of the mashed variety and includes picual olive oil. They grill their bread as well and rub it with tomato, garlic and olive oil. It has multiple uses including dipping beneath the albóndigas (Colorado lamb meatballs, tomato sauce, sheep’s milk cheese). You have that to look forward to after finishing this very generous and delicious creation. Good things come in threes. Like Boqueria. Just choose one and go!

Antique Garage

Posted on February 2, 2016 by Ciasamia

41 Mercer St. (between Broome and Grand Sts.) 212-219-1019 www.antiquegaragesoho.com

Mediterranean, Turkish. It’s amazing how happy a piano, bass and really good singer can make you feel. Add to that delicious Mediterranean fare plus terrific service and you’ve got the recipe for an excellent evening. I jumped in with the hummus (Med 101) which was, as expected, quite tasty. Next, the spicy shrimp sautéed with roma tomatoes, green hot peppers and an outrageous amount of flavor. Their grilled organic chicken (marinated in olive oil, wild oregano, rosemary) jams expertly with veggies, rice pilaf, French fries and yogurt sauce. Last, but so not least, is the seafood casserole, a ridiculous combination of shrimp, octopus, squid, and salmon. It’s baked with white wine, tomato, Kasseri cheese and the love of a chef who passes this inspired creation on to his patrons. Such amazing food makes for lots of fangirls and boys, but so does that music. The songs are old school, as is the name, but the place is filled with Millennials, among others, who don’t want to miss a beat.

Blue Ribbon Brasserie

Posted on August 9, 2015 by Ciasamia

97 Sullivan Street (between Spring and Prince Sts.) 212-274-0404 www.blueribbonrestaurants.com

American. When a restaurant debuts in 1992, few could expect it would still be here today. Longevity like that isn’t just impressive, it’s nearly nonexistent. But you know what’s even better? After more than two decades, the Blue Ribbon Brasserie doesn’t phone it in for one single second. They take their service, the menu and even their music as seriously as if they opened an hour ago. Here you find matzoh ball soup, tofu ravioli and escargot mere words away from fried chicken, hummus and paella. And while the offerings may seem purely random, the execution is unequivocally not. Allow me to speak to the hummus as it surely spoke to me. It is one of the best I have had, encircled on the plate by chopped onions, olives, tomatoes, endive and an over the top portion of pita. The hanger steak, delicious in its own right, is made even more so by the onion rings and countless wild mushrooms that accompany it. I was compelled to try two of their specials, which totally lived up to that billing. If you’re a fan of fried rock shrimp, your devotion will multiply while dipping it in lemon cayenne mayo. And the branzino (steamed, cherry tomatoed and sweetpea pureed) is yet another inspired combination. Then there’s Chocolate Bruno (flourless, chilled and tag teamed by three scoops of ice cream). Don’t ask. Just taste. So there you have it. The Blue Ribbon Brasserie. Thankfully here today. Blissfully far, far, far from gone tomorrow.

The Dutch

Posted on August 8, 2015 by Ciasamia

131 Sullivan Street (corner of Prince St.) 212-677-6200 www.thedutchnyc.com

American. If there’s one thing Soho knows, it’s cool…And restaurants…And restaurants that exude cool. With options on every corner, you ask, how can I possibly choose? That would be tough, if The Dutch didn’t make it so easy. You walk through the door to a palpably hot vibe. Yet, they never act like they’re doing you a favor. The greeting is friendly, the server has your back, and the room is filled with people happy to be there. Yes, you can feel it, but you can taste it too, in every creative and clearly thought out dish. The octopus and squid has pineapple, hearts of palm, and a ridiculous amount of flavor. Their trout is cornmeal crusted with summer beans and mustard, the perfect pairing of crunch and delicious. As for dessert, I don’t have a clue whose idea it was to create a carrot cake sundae (pineapple, walnuts and cream cheese ice cream), but that person is a genius. I know, so many choices in Soho. Well, allow me to make it simple. Eenie. Meenie. Miney. Go!

Sessanta

Posted on August 1, 2015 by Ciasamia

60 Thompson Street (between Broome and Spring Sts.) 212-219-8119 www.sessantanyc.com

Italian. Coming across an incredible new Italian restaurant is not unlike finding a four leaf clover. Discover one and the wave of excitement and good fortune is undeniable. Such is the feeling from the first bite at Sessanta. Ordering their marinated calamari, I had no idea its effect would be so profound. In combination with puffed black rice, celery hearts and lemon, it is simply a mix of tastes and textures like nothing else. Unforgettable in both crunch and flavor, I would swear I was dining in Italy. As I then quickly learned, they are as accomplished on land as they are at sea. The polpette di maiale (sausage meatballs, red peppers and Sicilian honey) is, without a doubt, another heavenly mosaic. I am sure it will come as no surprise that they know entrees as intimately as firsts. The roasted branzino with meyer lemon sits atop an herb and spring vegetable salad so compelling, it could be a dish in its own right. But don’t get me wrong, the harmony is absolute bliss. This is equally true of the evening, ensconced as you are in one of several spacious and stylized rooms, all the while attended to by a committed and gracious staff that doesn’t miss a beat. How lucky can you get?

Mamo

Posted on July 19, 2015 by Ciasamia

323 West Broadway (between Grand and Canal Sts.) 646-964-4641 www.mamonyc.com or [email protected]

Italian. They had me at breadsticks. And if they’re willing to put such time and care into that, you have surely come to the right place. Mamo is new to New York. The original has been on the French Riviera for over 20 years. Based on everything about our version, you would swear it existed for two decades rather than two months. The artichoke salad with greens, tomatoes, olives and parmesan is the ultimate union of freshness and flavor. Their margherita pizza is made with tomatoes, basil and cantal cheese (of which I had never heard, but am now the world’s greatest fan due to the magic it produced). The rigatoni with meatballs and sausage is yet another treat. And the orata, seared and filleted tableside, is accompanied by a shiny copper pot filled with an array of very inviting vegetables. It’s all more than generous, but you should not depart without having dessert. Their affogato sports three scoops of incomparable vanilla ice cream, bathed not in espresso but steaming hot strawberries. Taste it and you cannot even imagine adding anything else. The meal is a dream awash in white — walls, wood beams and some of the most comfortable, cushiony chairs I have ever felt. All the more reason to linger, although the sweet range of music, soft lighting and wonderful service have pretty much taken care of that. It’s a good thing we don’t have to go to Antibes to experience this. But, trust me, it would be worth it.

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