98 Rivington Street (corner of Ludlow St.) 212-466-1888 (also in Soho, 45 Mercer St. between Broome and Grand Sts. 212-966-9288) www.gallirestaurant.com

Italian. If this were a film, Galli would be that local place where people go to be happy. Their staff is cast to perfection, the server, sweet and kind as could be. The less principal players are just as invested - pouring, clearing, and doing all they can to assure you an excellent time. Cut to the meal. A feast for more than just the eyes, it delivers everything you would hope. Their baked clams are amazing (my one regret choosing six instead of twelve). It’s a terrific lead in to the chicken parm, so large and delicious I was tempted to give it a Standing O. The oven roasted branzino is equally flavor filled, its herb marinade transporting the catch to a whole new level. Although this fish requires no accompaniment, the asparagus and cherry tomatoes give a flawless performance. When it was time for dessert, the waitperson raved about their tiramisu which totally lived up to the reputation. I also tried Mario’s berries served with whipped cream. The assortment is varied and, like every other dish this evening, larger than life. Galli is truly the perfect neighborhood spot. But if isn’t in yours, DO NOT let that stand in your way.

325 Bowery (corner of 2nd St.) 212-220-9100 www.barprimi.com

Italian. There are two kinds of people. Those who love vegetables and everyone else. For the violently opposed, I have one word — broccolini. This composition of bomba calabrese, feta, and breadcrumbs is so outrageously tasty, you will never believe you just ate a you-know-what. Your body, though confused, will thank you profusely. If veggies are your thing, you’re going to lose the power of speech. I was lucky enough to arrive on a Friday when the special of the day is lobster oreganata with linguine pangrattato (aka breadcrumbs, aka incredible). The grilled branzino, however, is here every night (good thing because it is such a good thing). And missing dessert would be wrong on so many levels (starting with affogato or tiramisu). You’ve hit the greens. It’s sugar time.

136 Division Street (between Ludlow and Orchard Sts.) 212-941-5060 www.bacaronyc.com

Italian. You may have to work a little to find it, but it is totally worth the effort. There are a few tables at street level, with most of the seating found below ground. After descending the candlelit stairs, you enter the cellar. Dark, cozy, and brick lined, its hidden cave ambiance cannot be ignored. Happily, the food is as enticing as the space. Both the crab salad over polenta and chicken Milanese are transportive. The gelato arrives in three unembarrassed scoops (their hazelnut, espresso, and olive oil each rich and delicious). Break out the GPS; it would be a shame to miss this spot.