Carroll Place

Posted on May 26, 2016 by Ciasamia

157 Bleecker St. (between Thompson and Sullivan Sts.) 212-260-1700 www.carrollplacenyc.com

American. Carroll Place has two totally separate yet completely amazing vibes. Downstairs is a bar, tables close, each and every inch electricity filled. Up one flight, more bar, cushy seats and a space as chill as the downstairs is pulsating. Either place you land, you’ll be surrounded by jaw droppingly beautiful digs and equally memorable eats. I began with the pork ragu sliders (shaved parmigiano) and arugula salad (parmigiano and pickled onion). Wildly diverse, except in their degree of delicious. To follow, the pizza emilia (san marzano tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella, arugula prosciutto di parma D.O.C., shaved parmigiano and pure perfection). If you love lamb, please don’t miss the burger with grilled onion and feta, nestled in the fabulousness of a focaccia bun. Is there anything they can’t do? Clearly not, as the banana bread pudding with salted caramel gelato proves bite after heavenly bite. Come up. Or down. But get your groove on at Carroll Place.

Freud

Posted on March 12, 2016 by Ciasamia

506 LaGuardia Place (between Houston and Bleecker Sts.) 212-777-0327 www.freudnyc.com

Austrian. Do you suffer from FOMO? If Fear Of Missing Out is an issue, you will clearly benefit from some Freud. This new addition to the city is definitely the place to be. Their Austrian preparations are lovingly prepared then served in jazz infused surroundings. It’s a combination so therapeutic, you may find yourself exploring your childhood. My personal journey began with an onion tarte (braised cipollini onions, farmers cheese, onion gravy). I had never before experienced gravy on a tarte but am now a believer it should be a requirement. The barley “risotto” (turmeric juice and Jean-Louis cheese) deserves props as well, a twist clearly worth delving into. When it comes to a classic, like skirt steak, you are in equally good hands. Theirs is accompanied by charred scallion, black shallots and celeriac mille-feuille, a fusion of flavor compelling enough to invade your dreams. You may also find yourself absorbed in the black sea bass — the little neck clams, parsley root, and rhubarb further enhancing an already addictive dish. For dessert, I ordered the special. It requires no analysis to determine the root of this new obsession (apple strudel with both whipped and vanilla cream). There is absolutely nothing to work through here. Make an appointment, I mean reservation, ASAP.

Blue Hill

Posted on November 5, 2015 by Ciasamia

75 Washington Place (between MacDougal St. and Sixth Avenue) 212-539-1776 www.bluehillfarm.com

American. Visit their website, and you will learn the ingredients they select hail from farms in Westchester and Massachusetts. Taste what they create, and every bite you take will prove it’s true. It does not get any fresher or more innovative than this. Blue Hill offers a six course tasting menu designed by the chef. Alternatively, you can make your own selections amongst the four course option, as I did. The smoked seckel pears (bell peppers and fromage blanc) are by turns sweet, surprising, and entirely unforgettable. String bean salad might sound straightforward, but with tarragon, nectarines and hazelnuts in its orbit, you have entered a whole other dimension. This morning’s farm egg with chanterelles and hen of the woods mushrooms will leave you mesmerized. As will the roasted fluke with Manhattan clam chowder. It is safe to say you have never, ever experienced a preparation like this. Blue Hill takes our preconceptions and rejoices in turning them on their heads. Their “gnocchi disguised as tortellini” with purple potato, shiitake mushrooms and herb broth may be an illusion - But there is no masquerading the flavor, astounding beyond belief. The freedom ranger chicken (salsify, dehydrated grapes) is just one more example of a kitchen that knows no bounds. The dining room is pretty wonderful as well, with tones of gray, the lighting low, the staff consummate professionals. Back on their site, you will also find the word artisanal. The dictionary should take heed and replace the current definition with Blue Hill.

Il Mulino

Posted on October 14, 2015 by Ciasamia

86 W. 3rd St. (between Thompson and Sullivan Sts.) 212-673-3783 www.ilmulino.com

Italian. Fried zucchini. Aged parmigiano. Salami. Mussels. Bruschetta. And the menu hasn’t even arrived. The quantity, no doubt significant, pales in comparison to the quality, a testament to the extraordinary nature of what has been placed before you. The freshness of the bruschetta alone deserves its own paragraph, the flavor a gift that is simply unrivaled. Next came a recitation of specials — numerous, descriptive and mesmerizing. It could not be more apparent that anything selected would be otherworldly. Such was their shrimp and scallops rollatini with fontina cheese, the grilled octopus, the sea bass livornese. Sensing it would be unforgivable to miss the actual menu, I experienced the chicken parmigiana. And it was an experience as it fills the dinner plate, not just in diameter but absolute perfection. I could go on about each creation individually, but there really is no point, because every dish is masterfully realized. You may have had them elsewhere, but never like this. How do you know you’ve hit gold? When you end the meal with tartufo and the whipped cream is nearly as unforgettable as the dessert. Il Mulino has been spreading pure bliss since 1982. If you haven’t had the privilege, do yourself the greatest possible favor and indulge, pronto.

Asia de Cuba

Posted on September 6, 2015 by Ciasamia

415 Lafayette St. (between East 4th St. and Astor Place) 212-726-7755 www.asiadecuba.com

Asian-Cuban. Do you believe in reincarnation? If not, you will surely change your mind having spent the evening at Asia de Cuba. After a four year hiatus following a nearly 15 year run in midtown, they recently reopened their doors on Lafayette. And while the neighborhood may be novel, the forethought, originality and care found in each dish is clearly nothing new to them. Their ropa vieja spring rolls — slow braised with rocoto sweet and sour — as well as the glazed black cod (orange mojo, avocado poblano purée) are positively addicting. The palomilla (flat iron steak) is ginger and papaya marinated with tatsoi, pickled vegetables, chili mojo and magic. Equally impressive is the array of homemade desserts, outstanding, eclectic and not to be overlooked. The tres leches de chocolate is both sheltered below and enhanced by an insanely innovative chocolate Szechuan peppercorn ice cream. Yet, the talent within these walls extends beyond innovation to scholarship. The waitperson, newly minted, could not have been more well versed had he been serving for decades. His knowledge was then rivaled by a level of warmth and consideration that only heightened the experience. The same must be said of the tables, generously sized and spaced, Latin background music and candlelit surroundings. Asia de Cuba. They’re back. And we are so much better off for it.

Alta

Posted on June 27, 2015 by Ciasamia

64 West 10th St. (Between 5th and 6th Aves.) 212-505-7777 www.altarestaurant.com

Tapas. I saw no name on the building, no number on the wall. Just an open door with the inviting sounds of a happy crowd beckoning entry. They’ve taken a townhouse and created a restaurant, a tribute to the gods of tapas. The tastes are multicultural, yet united in their wowness. Each dish I experienced - the grilled calamari, short rib empanadas, grilled octopus, beef sliders, flatbread and spaghetti pepperoncini was as flavorful as the one to come before it. But wait, there’s more. The carrot cake with cream cheese mousse, candied pecans and pineapple sorbet followed by their napoleon, a confection of chocolate cream, peanut butter ganache and malted milk chocolate ice cream sealed the deal on a meal without flaw. They don’t need a name outside to leave an impression. One bite will do that. And by the end of the night, there is zero chance you will ever forget.

Tertulia

Posted on May 18, 2015 by Ciasamia

359 6th Ave (corner of Washington Place, essentially between Waverly Place and West 4th St.) 646-559-9909 www.tertulianyc.com

Spanish. The best advice I got all weekend came when the waitperson declared, “Don’t fill up on patatas, the paella is very generous.” That is easier said than done since those crispy potatoes are quickly habit forming. I was consoled by the thought of having some packed for home then turned my attention to tapas. The Spanish octopus (atop sour grains, olives, preserved lemon chimichurri) and beef and pork meatballs with almonds, tomatoes and sheep’s milk cheese were so good, I wondered how the paella could possibly compare. However, their incarnation - pasture-raised chicken studding the rice like flawless diamonds is such a flavorful experience, you do not want the meal to end. Ultimately, it does, but just until the next day when the patatas are yours once again.

Hundred Acres

Posted on March 29, 2015 by Ciasamia

38 MacDougal Street (between Houston and Prince Sts., closer to Prince) 212-475-7500 www.hundredacresnyc.com

American. One step inside and Manhattan is a distant memory. The windowed and white tiled walls evoke a cottage atmosphere where the mood is festive and the food is southern style. Their menu abounds with the likes of hushpuppies and gumbo. The spiced pecan-spring onion waffle with fried chicken wings and maple-molasses sauce is sweet, spicy and completely delicious. Service is unobtrusive yet vigilant and the portions are as generous as down home hospitality. Turn your head and you’re surrounded by NYers, all thrilled to spend a few hours chilling on the bayou without crossing so much as a bridge.

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