Category Archives: Chelsea

La Sirena

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88 Ninth Avenue (between 16th and 17th Sts.) 212-977-6096 www.lasirena-nyc.com

Italian. La Sirena is a restaurant. Yet by the time you’ve walked up the stairs, you’re convinced you’re at a club. The style, vibe, and crowd create an unmistakable electricity that makes you so happy to be there. And you haven’t even tasted the food! Once you do, it will take every bit of discipline not to jump out of your seat and do a cartwheel. I began my meal with quail alla piastra (rhubarb, marinated figs, red mustard greens). I have seen this dish never, which is too bad considering how completely delicious is its blend of flavors. They are clearly experts at harmony here, proven again by the pici with sausage and escarole (hand rolled spaghetti, fresh sausage, escarole ragu). What might they do with an entrée? Take a bite of the polpette agrodolce with escarole and pecorino and find out. You are presented three sweet and sour meatballs, each thankfully immodest in taste and size. The Sicilian style grilled swordfish alla messinese is equally inspirational, with olives, tomatoes, currants, capers, pine nuts, and marjoram. Allow yourself to get full at your own peril. To do so would mean missing out on dolce like chocolate coppetta (chocolate espresso sponge cake, chocolate gelato, honey vanilla mascarpone and espresso chocolate syrup). It is dessert, coffee and heaven all at once. But then again, La Sirena is so much more than you could ever have expected.

Tia Pol

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205 10th Avenue (between 22nd and 23rd Sts.) 212-675-8805 www.tiapol.com

Spanish. There’s tapas and there’s tapas. Keep your expectations high and head to Tia Pol. Not only do they bring you dish after delicious dish, they do it with the mellowest of attitudes in the most laid back of spaces. I was immediately hooked on their fried chickpeas, as generous and addictive as a starter could possibly be. This was followed by a grilled, garlic-rubbed baguette (tomato, three sauces, my second addiction of the night). Their shrimp in olive oil with garlic and chili is plentiful and full of personality. When the wonderful waitperson suggested bread for the liquid gold that remained, I happily said yes — it would be lunacy to refuse this offer. Their grilled steak special (fava beans and a chimichurri sauce) was just more proof of how exceptional they are, and when paired with the patatas bravas, a whole other level of brilliant. I attribute this to two things: the outrageous flavor of the entrée and one of the best potato preparations I have ever tasted. Upon completion, I was momentarily conflicted, unsure there was room for dessert. I got over that pretty quickly and committed to the Spanish almond cake with dulce de leche and vanilla ice cream. I do not even want to think about the fact that I could have missed out. At Tia Pol, it all looks so amazingly effortless. But that’s only because they know exactly what they’re doing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tipsy Parson

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156 Ninth Avenue (between 19th and 20th Sts.) 212-620-4545 www.tipsyparson.com

Southern. Visit the Tipsy Parson website, and you will learn they’ve trademarked the term Belly-Filling Goodness. Good thing, because they could not be any more deserving of ownership. Their down home menu is dripping with a wealth of fabulous comfort food done up right. They could just serve corn dogs, but theirs are waygu beef, the dipping sauce champagne vinaigrette. If hot dogs had an opposite it would probably be salad, and their Upstate Orchard incarnation is as incredible as those weenies on a stick. With honey crisp apples, nashi pears, celery root, walnuts, pickled radish, and apple cider vinaigrette, it is a supreme union of texture and taste. I dare anyone to take a bite and not have the word fresh instantaneously spring to mind. Their half rack of BBQ ribs (Carolina red vinegar sauce and shaved onions) takes “falling off the bone” from cliché to reality. It’s accompanied by corn bread and honey butter, the perfect pairing if ever there was one. I also experienced Aunt Linda’s Special Duck Fat Chicken-Fried Turkey Steak with buttermilk mashed potatoes and country gravy which is worth every syllable. If you leave room for dessert, there are several tempting treats including the Grasshopper (mint mousse, chocolate streusel, chocolate cremeaux and whipped cream). Yes, it is as good as it sounds, even better if that’s possible. It would be bad manners not to mention the hospitality, the server so astonishingly warm and friendly, it’s like we knew each other forever. Please don’t wait that long to get there, y’all.

 

 

Colicchio & Sons

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85 Tenth Avenue (between 15th and 16th Sts.) 212-400-6699 www.craftrestaurantsinc.com

American. “Nice to see you” were the first words the waitperson spoke. And although we had never met, the kindness was genuine and an initial indication of how much Colicchio & Sons truly care. They prove this repeatedly throughout the meal in so very many ways. The décor, the music and perfectly attentive, yet unobtrusive, service cannot help but enhance your evening exponentially. We haven’t even gotten to the food (which you can probably guess is no less ideal than the stellar treatment you will undoubtedly receive). Choose between the standard menu and four course prix fixe. You can’t go wrong either way, so good are they at what they do. The baby romaine with buttermilk, quinoa and smoked salmon is a testament to both texture and taste. Also engaging is their baby octopus, uniquely accompanied by citrus, caramelized endive and chorizo vinaigrette. The prix fixe presents hamachi with cucumber, oyster velouté and caviar followed by one of the best realizations of rigatoni to ever grace a plate. Some credit must be given to the broccoli rabe and prosciutto which ensconce this deliciously crafted al dente dish. The only decision was venison or fish. Although I am sure they are equally outstanding, committing to the braised halibut with salsify and carrot-cumin jus left not one regret. The mocha éclair with spiced pear, malt and toasted marshmallow ice cream is as good as it sounds. But this is true of every taste, including an early surprise offering of extraordinary hot apple cider and a freshly made muffin (presented for take home when you are ready to depart). As I was leaving, I made sure to let the host and hostess know what an absolutely wonderful experience it was, the sentiment 100% heartfelt.

 

Bodega Negra

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355 West 16th Street (between Eighth and Ninth Avenues) 212-229-2336 bodeganegranyc.com

Mexican. The first thing you notice is the large rotating ball suspended from the ceiling. Not unlike a mirror ball, but covered in pennies, it sets the tone. To be clear, Bodega Negra isn’t just hot — it’s smoking. The room, the music, the crowd, the vibration. It so happens their food is incredibly tasty, but that just feels like a bonus at a place with the caché of an amazing club filled with fabulous partygoers. The lobster tacos (chile morita butter, chipotle salsa and roasted tomato) are spicy and very satisfying. Yet even more worship inducing was their shrimp ceviche, possibly the best I have ever had. I also could not get enough of the fajitas cabron, the perfectly prepared skirt steak an ideal tenant for the fresh, homemade corn tortillas. The lamb barbacoa with salsa borracha is slow roasted, the process completed atop a flame before your very eyes. If you don’t leave room for dessert, you will miss one of the best chocolate infusions of your life. The Don Huevo is an invention of epic proportion. There appears a huge white chocolate dome, sporting a dark chocolate mustache. Hot caramel sauce is then poured from above, its melting action quick to reveal the dark chocolate molten cake, negra modelo and cinnamon ice cream within. They even add a chocolate scorpion for good measure. But everything about Bodega Negra is good. Make that amazing. Get there soon.

 

 

 

Salinas

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136 9th Avenue (between 18th and 19th Sts.) 212-776-1990 www.salinasnyc.com

Spanish. Unparalleled paella. If this is your dish, you will not be disappointed. I had it “socarrat” (with the rice toasted and crunchy at the bottom of the pan) and loved it even more. Each room is different from the next. The farthest has a retractable roof, an added bonus when the climate is cooperative. There are candles and lanterns throughout. Mellow, Sade-esque music compliments the very relaxed tone. Amenable to conversation, attentive waitstaff, delicious food.

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