La Sirena

Posted on July 10, 2016 by Ciasamia

88 Ninth Avenue (between 16th and 17th Sts.) 212-977-6096 www.lasirena-nyc.com

Italian. La Sirena is a restaurant. Yet by the time you’ve walked up the stairs, you’re convinced you’re at a club. The style, vibe, and crowd create an unmistakable electricity that makes you so happy to be there. And you haven’t even tasted the food! Once you do, it will take every bit of discipline not to jump out of your seat and do a cartwheel. I began my meal with quail alla piastra (rhubarb, marinated figs, red mustard greens). I have seen this dish never, which is too bad considering how completely delicious is its blend of flavors. They are clearly experts at harmony here, proven again by the pici with sausage and escarole (hand rolled spaghetti, fresh sausage, escarole ragu). What might they do with an entrée? Take a bite of the polpette agrodolce with escarole and pecorino and find out. You are presented three sweet and sour meatballs, each thankfully immodest in taste and size. The Sicilian style grilled swordfish alla messinese is equally inspirational, with olives, tomatoes, currants, capers, pine nuts, and marjoram. Allow yourself to get full at your own peril. To do so would mean missing out on dolce like chocolate coppetta (chocolate espresso sponge cake, chocolate gelato, honey vanilla mascarpone and espresso chocolate syrup). It is dessert, coffee and heaven all at once. But then again, La Sirena is so much more than you could ever have expected.

Café Altro Paradiso

Posted on June 20, 2016 by Ciasamia

234 Spring St. (between 6th Avenue and Varick St.) 646-952-0828 www.altroparadiso.com

Italian. I love cheese. I just never realized how much until dining at Café Altro Paradiso. Whether a hint or focus of the dish, what they do is absolute wizardry. Take their salami and parmigiano-reggiano. No seriously, take it. I don’t believe tastier cheese has ever passed my lips. The pacchieri di grano arso with chicken and olive ragù offered another opportunity to indulge. This perfect pasta made even more compelling by just a subtle accent of formaggio. The kitchen is equally pesce profound as proven by the seared octopus with chickpea salad and their swordfish (summer squash, pesto trapanese). Every flavor I encountered was a gift, unexpectedly ideal and outrageously captivating. Even the dessert (chocolate and walnut torta with whipped cream) exceeded any possible expectation. The space is unique and inviting, done up in blonde wood and an abundance of curves. The staff moves seamlessly and intuitively throughout, guaranteeing an evening as striking and unforgettable as the perfect piece of you know what.

Vic’s

Posted on March 9, 2016 by Ciasamia

31 Great Jones St. (between Lafayette St. and the Bowery) 212-253-5700 www.vicsnewyork.com

Italian. You know what’s even better than garlic bread? Garlic bread with garlic butter. I had no idea until a recent evening at Vic’s, where I have never been so happy to be schooled. From the very first bite, it is clear they have their finger on the pulse of brilliant Italian. I was just as awed by the spin on blood oranges (radicchio, aged goat cheese, hazelnuts), an incomparable blend in perfect sync. Even a simple tomato pizza (basil, young pecorino) is profound in its depth of deliciousness. Their lamb belly shares space with celery pesto, pistachio and celery root, yet another example of harmony on a plate. The pasta special was all about duck, the fusilli an inspired showcase for this roasted, insanely flavorful preparation. Their blood orange sorbet and vanilla mint chip gelato prove they are also no stranger to dessert. You would think they put every ounce of attention into all this amazing food, but no. They care as much about your experience as the overly generous dishes they present. The walls are brick and mellowly lit from beneath, and the server could not have been more likable if he tried. The crowd is a testament to how happy everyone is to be there. And if Vic’s isn’t a master class on the way to do it right, nothing is.

Maialino

Posted on February 11, 2016 by Ciasamia

2 Lexington Avenue (between 22nd St. and N. Gramercy Park) 212-777-2410 www.maialinonyc.com

Italian. It’s taking just about every ounce of willpower not to begin with a discussion of ice cream. That would not be fair to Maialino, a premier Italian restaurant which happens to offer some of the best and creamiest I have ever encountered. Their unparalleled gelato speaks volumes about what you can expect from your meal, purely unforgettable from start to spectacular finish. I was awestruck by the insalata, composed simply of radicchio, citrus, parmigiano and balsamic. Who needs bells and whistles with a greeting this delicious and fabulously fresh? The polpo (octopus) is equally deserving of praise, seared with heirloom beans, celery and pickled shallots. Either finds the perfect follow up in brodetto di pesce, their seafood stew with tomato and toasted filone. This particular evening offered the chance to indulge in a pasta special (made even more special by the 1/2 lb. lobster in its midst). Just go with whatever you’re craving, because Maialino has achieved menu perfection, yours to discover from the first heavenly bite. Which brings us back to dessert. The coffee crunch and amarena cherry are light years beyond their nearest rival. And I would willingly trek to the ends of the galaxy for another scoop of each.

Galli LES (Lower East Side)

Posted on December 6, 2015 by Ciasamia

98 Rivington Street (corner of Ludlow St.) 212-466-1888 (also in Soho, 45 Mercer St. between Broome and Grand Sts. 212-966-9288) www.gallirestaurant.com

Italian. If this were a film, Galli would be that local place where people go to be happy. Their staff is cast to perfection, the server, sweet and kind as could be. The less principal players are just as invested - pouring, clearing, and doing all they can to assure you an excellent time. Cut to the meal. A feast for more than just the eyes, it delivers everything you would hope. Their baked clams are amazing (my one regret choosing six instead of twelve). It’s a terrific lead in to the chicken parm, so large and delicious I was tempted to give it a Standing O. The oven roasted branzino is equally flavor filled, its herb marinade transporting the catch to a whole new level. Although this fish requires no accompaniment, the asparagus and cherry tomatoes give a flawless performance. When it was time for dessert, the waitperson raved about their tiramisu which totally lived up to the reputation. I also tried Mario’s berries served with whipped cream. The assortment is varied and, like every other dish this evening, larger than life. Galli is truly the perfect neighborhood spot. But if isn’t in yours, DO NOT let that stand in your way.

Il Mulino

Posted on October 14, 2015 by Ciasamia

86 W. 3rd St. (between Thompson and Sullivan Sts.) 212-673-3783 www.ilmulino.com

Italian. Fried zucchini. Aged parmigiano. Salami. Mussels. Bruschetta. And the menu hasn’t even arrived. The quantity, no doubt significant, pales in comparison to the quality, a testament to the extraordinary nature of what has been placed before you. The freshness of the bruschetta alone deserves its own paragraph, the flavor a gift that is simply unrivaled. Next came a recitation of specials — numerous, descriptive and mesmerizing. It could not be more apparent that anything selected would be otherworldly. Such was their shrimp and scallops rollatini with fontina cheese, the grilled octopus, the sea bass livornese. Sensing it would be unforgivable to miss the actual menu, I experienced the chicken parmigiana. And it was an experience as it fills the dinner plate, not just in diameter but absolute perfection. I could go on about each creation individually, but there really is no point, because every dish is masterfully realized. You may have had them elsewhere, but never like this. How do you know you’ve hit gold? When you end the meal with tartufo and the whipped cream is nearly as unforgettable as the dessert. Il Mulino has been spreading pure bliss since 1982. If you haven’t had the privilege, do yourself the greatest possible favor and indulge, pronto.

Lavo

Posted on September 26, 2015 by Ciasamia

39 East 58th Street (between Park and Madison Aves.) 212-750-5588 www.lavony.com

Italian. I have to thank the Pope, without whose urban presence I would have dined downtown as usual. Lucky for me, his arrival led to Lavo. You will find it in the 50s. But, once inside, I would swear I was seated two or three miles south. The space, crowd and service all bring a below 14th Street sensibility. I cannot, in fact, speak enough about the server who, with such knowledge, enthusiasm and all around nice guyness, made an incredible meal even better. Not easy, considering the brilliance begins with garlic bread and tomato sauce arriving moments after you do. I could have gone home happy then, but would have missed the baked clams oreganato, yet another completely ingenious ode to garlic. Still, classics aren’t all they do, proven by the chopped salad “Louie” (assorted vegetables, house vinaigrette) topped generously with lobster and shrimp. They are really good with fish, witnessed again in the grilled branzino panzanella — ciabatta, heirloom tomato, arugula. This and their chicken parmigiano are listed under House Specialties which is all that need be said. Beyond that, they are well versed in steak should you happen to be in the mood. Could it possibly get any better? Yes it could, because you have not yet had dessert. Among the countless temptations, I was drawn to the Oreo Zeppole, described as double stuffed with malted vanilla milkshake. Who puts oreos inside a zeppole? Clearly the smartest person on earth. Actually the second smartest, since you will take first prize when you decide to make the pilgrimage here.

Sessanta

Posted on August 1, 2015 by Ciasamia

60 Thompson Street (between Broome and Spring Sts.) 212-219-8119 www.sessantanyc.com

Italian. Coming across an incredible new Italian restaurant is not unlike finding a four leaf clover. Discover one and the wave of excitement and good fortune is undeniable. Such is the feeling from the first bite at Sessanta. Ordering their marinated calamari, I had no idea its effect would be so profound. In combination with puffed black rice, celery hearts and lemon, it is simply a mix of tastes and textures like nothing else. Unforgettable in both crunch and flavor, I would swear I was dining in Italy. As I then quickly learned, they are as accomplished on land as they are at sea. The polpette di maiale (sausage meatballs, red peppers and Sicilian honey) is, without a doubt, another heavenly mosaic. I am sure it will come as no surprise that they know entrees as intimately as firsts. The roasted branzino with meyer lemon sits atop an herb and spring vegetable salad so compelling, it could be a dish in its own right. But don’t get me wrong, the harmony is absolute bliss. This is equally true of the evening, ensconced as you are in one of several spacious and stylized rooms, all the while attended to by a committed and gracious staff that doesn’t miss a beat. How lucky can you get?

Mamo

Posted on July 19, 2015 by Ciasamia

323 West Broadway (between Grand and Canal Sts.) 646-964-4641 www.mamonyc.com or [email protected]

Italian. They had me at breadsticks. And if they’re willing to put such time and care into that, you have surely come to the right place. Mamo is new to New York. The original has been on the French Riviera for over 20 years. Based on everything about our version, you would swear it existed for two decades rather than two months. The artichoke salad with greens, tomatoes, olives and parmesan is the ultimate union of freshness and flavor. Their margherita pizza is made with tomatoes, basil and cantal cheese (of which I had never heard, but am now the world’s greatest fan due to the magic it produced). The rigatoni with meatballs and sausage is yet another treat. And the orata, seared and filleted tableside, is accompanied by a shiny copper pot filled with an array of very inviting vegetables. It’s all more than generous, but you should not depart without having dessert. Their affogato sports three scoops of incomparable vanilla ice cream, bathed not in espresso but steaming hot strawberries. Taste it and you cannot even imagine adding anything else. The meal is a dream awash in white — walls, wood beams and some of the most comfortable, cushiony chairs I have ever felt. All the more reason to linger, although the sweet range of music, soft lighting and wonderful service have pretty much taken care of that. It’s a good thing we don’t have to go to Antibes to experience this. But, trust me, it would be worth it.

Scalini Fedeli

Posted on June 6, 2015 by Ciasamia

165 Duane St. (between Greenwich and Hudson Sts.) 212-528-0400 www.scalinifedeli.com

Italian. Once upon a time there came the perfect place for a date, proposal, anniversary, family gathering or business dinner. It was beautiful, with vaulted ceilings, countless flowers and better table spacing than could be wished. The menu, extensive and prix fixe, a delicious ode to Italian cuisine. The service as beguiling as one could ever hope. The desserts, each more enticing than the next. Ideal in every measure, it would seem a figment of one’s imagination — black truffle Arctic char, parmigiano crusted pork chop, warm caramelized apple tart in a baked fillo crust. Thankfully, this is no fabrication, but Scalini Fedeli. And, like the most riveting of tales, you will be compelled to revisit it again and again.

Bar Primi

Posted on May 30, 2015 by Ciasamia

325 Bowery (corner of 2nd St.) 212-220-9100 www.barprimi.com

Italian. There are two kinds of people. Those who love vegetables and everyone else. For the violently opposed, I have one word — broccolini. This composition of bomba calabrese, feta, and breadcrumbs is so outrageously tasty, you will never believe you just ate a you-know-what. Your body, though confused, will thank you profusely. If veggies are your thing, you’re going to lose the power of speech. I was lucky enough to arrive on a Friday when the special of the day is lobster oreganata with linguine pangrattato (aka breadcrumbs, aka incredible). The grilled branzino, however, is here every night (good thing because it is such a good thing). And missing dessert would be wrong on so many levels (starting with affogato or tiramisu). You’ve hit the greens. It’s sugar time.

Marta

Posted on May 10, 2015 by Ciasamia

29 East 29th St. (between Park and Madison Aves.) 212-651-3800 www.martamanhattan.com

Italian. If pizza on a Saturday night doesn’t sound like your idea of a good time, chances are you haven’t been to Marta. They have turned it into an art form, with variations that include lamb confit as well as cuttlefish with squid ink béchamel, scallions, and pecorino. Tamer options abound and appear equally delicious (I can personally swear by the pork sausage with cremini mushrooms). There is also an array of appetizers and several entrées if that is more your state of mind. No matter what you choose, you’ll indulge beneath outrageously high ceilings which make the room feel even more spacious. Now add the atmosphere and this fusion is as fan worthy as one of their masterful creations.

Bacaro

Posted on March 7, 2015 by Ciasamia

136 Division Street (between Ludlow and Orchard Sts.) 212-941-5060 www.bacaronyc.com

Italian. You may have to work a little to find it, but it is totally worth the effort. There are a few tables at street level, with most of the seating found below ground. After descending the candlelit stairs, you enter the cellar. Dark, cozy, and brick lined, its hidden cave ambiance cannot be ignored. Happily, the food is as enticing as the space. Both the crab salad over polenta and chicken Milanese are transportive. The gelato arrives in three unembarrassed scoops (their hazelnut, espresso, and olive oil each rich and delicious). Break out the GPS; it would be a shame to miss this spot.

Pagani

Posted on February 17, 2015 by Ciasamia

289 Bleecker Street (off 7th Avenue South) 212-488-5800 www.paganinyc.com

Italian. Being really cool means never having to try. The lighting is mellow, the walls warm and rich, awash in brown. The waiter, both attentive and affable, is far from the only one looking out for your well being. No less than three others stroll the surroundings, chatting animatedly with guests while ensuring your perpetual happiness. The menu is extensive; the selection of pasta particularly plentiful. Then there’s the music, predating almost everyone in the room and enhancing the tone even further. It all works here (and works well together). No flash, no hype. Just a perfectly excellent time.

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