31 Great Jones St. (between Lafayette St. and the Bowery) 212-253-5700 www.vicsnewyork.com

Italian. You know what’s even better than garlic bread? Garlic bread with garlic butter. I had no idea until a recent evening at Vic’s, where I have never been so happy to be schooled. From the very first bite, it is clear they have their finger on the pulse of brilliant Italian. I was just as awed by the spin on blood oranges (radicchio, aged goat cheese, hazelnuts), an incomparable blend in perfect sync. Even a simple tomato pizza (basil, young pecorino) is profound in its depth of deliciousness. Their lamb belly shares space with celery pesto, pistachio and celery root, yet another example of harmony on a plate. The pasta special was all about duck, the fusilli an inspired showcase for this roasted, insanely flavorful preparation. Their blood orange sorbet and vanilla mint chip gelato prove they are also no stranger to dessert. You would think they put every ounce of attention into all this amazing food, but no. They care as much about your experience as the overly generous dishes they present. The walls are brick and mellowly lit from beneath, and the server could not have been more likable if he tried. The crowd is a testament to how happy everyone is to be there. And if Vic’s isn’t a master class on the way to do it right, nothing is.