16 Bank St. (at Waverly Place) 917-828-1154 www.waverlyinn.com

American. If you get the chance to wish upon a star, ask for an evening at The Waverly Inn. It is hard to imagine a more perfect experience than this. The dining room, awash in riveting murals, burnished seating and wood, every square inch filled with character. Find yourself in the garden, and NYC is light years away. Its red brick walls, crawling ivy, farmhouse shutters, ceiling fans, oversized plants and sweeping skylight create a botanical effect that is both placid and stunning. I simply did not want to go home. Every dish was novel, spectacular, and singularly delicious. I began with the outrageously innovative summer melon salad (feta, chili, cilantro). It is impossible to conceive of a more refreshing or delectable creation than this. That is not to say you won’t be mesmerized by the Jonah crab cakes with tartar sauce and celery root coleslaw because they, too, are ridiculously flavor gifted. The cold poached lobster salad with herb mayo is not your typical presentation, but cradled in a half lobster shell, the tempting greens practically levitating above. Setting the bar in the stratosphere, this execution easily matches the creativity behind it. Not to be outdone are the Colorado lamb chops with garbanzo purée, yogurt, marinated chick peas and puffed wild rice. Both the chocolate mousse with chocolate fudge and dessert special (cherry tarte, crème anglaise, cinnamon ice cream) only furthered my plan to plant roots here. It was all I could do to drag myself away. So the next time you gaze up on a clear night, start wishing. It is one of the best decisions you will ever make.

531 Hudson Street (between West 10th and Charles Sts.) 212-255-7675 www.swinenyc.com

American. What do potato chip nachos, seared lamb chops, grilled cheese toast with tomato soup, and pinball have in common? They can all be yours at Swine, along with a night you will not soon forget. Yeah, it looks and feels like a joint (comfortable darkness, filament lighting, retro tunes), but every single bite will tell you different. The nachos (five cheese fondue, jalapeño, pork belly) are a nice twist on the conventional and their grilled cheese (four year vintage cheddar, American, brioche) one of the most satisfying I have ever tasted. To not dip it in the tomato soup would be completely criminal. I lucked out with the lamb chops special, thick and delicious as the day is long, the accompanying demi glaze carrots and quinoa only adding to my devotion. The evening ended on molten chocolate cake with salted caramel ice cream, as perfectly prepared as all that had come before it. You don’t need tats or a hog to be happy at Swine, just incredibly high expectations.

90 Bedford St. (corner of Grove St.) 212-741-4695 www.thelittleowlnyc.com

American. Arriving early, I was offered the chance to chill on their porch (a bench, complete with pillows, overlooking the restaurant). I ascended a few steps and, minutes later, was taking in the view from above, drink in hand. Best. Clubhouse. Ever. This memorable intro set the tone for a truly phenomenal night. Is it an overstatement to say The Little Owl knows no bounds? No, because they are as masterful with fish stew and snapper as meatball sliders and crispy chicken. There is undeniable wizardry inside that kitchen. And out. The maître’d extraordinaire has an uncanny way of making her guests feel as treasured as lifelong friends. Her warmth and energy are apparent in every word and gesture, the perpetual TLC enhancing an already ideal meal. I am still obsessing about their apple strudel with vanilla gelato and pink grapefruit lemonade. Maybe next time I’ll sip one from my perch on the porch. I may never come down.

10 Downing St. (between W. Houston and Bleecker Sts.) 212-675-4350 www.cafeclovernyc.com

American. Café Clover has that elusive “it” most places would do anything for. It’s a décor thing, a service thing, an every thing. Headlined, no doubt, by their pure and very healthy menu. Each dish I experienced was as life affirming as the one that came before. The octopus a la plancha (seared gem lettuce, mole verde, baked celeriac) is grilled genius. Then there is Murray’s burrata with whole wheat crostini, fig jam and rosemary — a brilliantly masterful combination. Their cod is also completely compelling, perhaps because it’s wrapped in sweet potato, surrounded by manila clams and celery root chowder. My absolute favorite was the Meiller Farm beef striploin, 6 ounces of heaven with brussels and olive oil potato purée. So delicious, I would swear I was at a steakhouse. You will not be sorry if you save room for dessert. Both the gelato (dark chocolate, espresso) and teff crepe cake (with marscapone mousse and espresso chocolate sauce) will make it worth your while. The same must be said of an evening spent at Café Clover. They are the whole package, a truly exceptional gift anyone would be lucky to receive.

615 1/2 Hudson St. (between Jane and 12th Sts.) 212-989-3155 www.thebespokekitchen.com

American. Prior to dining here, my perception of the bespoke experience was primarily clothes oriented (those shirts and suits made specifically for the intended and at serious financial expense). To the joy of their patrons, this restaurant does its own tailoring (think food instead of fabric), yet not at an exclusionary cost. Their entrées embrace the customization concept, with locally sourced ingredients and fresh, delicious flavor to match. You choose the protein and preparation (light or rich) and they bring the dish to life. I can speak about the fish as well as the beef. Both the branzino and rib eye were profoundly tasty as were the various vegetables and or potatoes with which they shared their plates. For starters, I indulged in the self-named bacon dumplings (roaming acres pork belly bacon, sake-sriracha aioli) and local market salad with Union Square market fall greens, pomegranate seeds and pecans. As you might guess, ordering old school is as rewarding as personally designing a course. Either way, you are in their outrageously talented hands. So while you’ve been given the wheel, Bespoke Kitchen is truly doing the driving. All that’s left is the decision on how to get yourself there.

430 Hudson Street (between Leroy and Morton Sts.) 212-960-3801 www.pioranyc.com

American. When an innovative restaurant serves a prix fixe, I instantly imagine the meal will be something special. Clearly Piora has absolutely no intention of proving me wrong. Their three course creations are so incredibly good, special doesn’t even begin to cover it. My experience took flight with market vegetables (variations, thousand island). They state not which. I could not tell. I do not care. The tastes, in concert, are as delicious as you can possibly dream (although I had never conceived of a symphony such as this). Another offering was hiramasa (yellowtail sushi with apple, basil and fresh wasabi), an equally wonderful way to start the evening. I could go on just as effusively about the second course, having experienced both the spectacular bucatini (black garlic, Dungeness crab, maitake, chili) and gnocchi (local mushrooms and fonduta fontina Val D’Aosta). Both are ideal entrees to the entrée, their lamb selection (with heirloom beans, artichoke and cassoulet flavors) as outstanding as all that had come before it. I assumed any of the desserts would be perfection. And the German chocolate mousse with butter pecan and coconut lime proved me right for the second time that night. I’d love to take credit for being so wise, but my only contribution was lifting the fork. And that is all it takes at Piora.

283 West 12th Street (corner of West 4th St.) 212-243-7073 www.blenheimhill.com

American. Farm to table is a term that gets thrown around a lot lately. Yet here, it is not simply a trend, it’s the gospel. Blenheim is named for their farm upstate where the magic begins, where free roaming animals are bred and raised and a hydroponic greenhouse nurtures countless herbs and vegetables until the time is right. Their menu is light years from static, guided by the seasons and that ideal debut of each cherished ingredient. My visit coincided with several outrageously unforgettable dishes, although I am convinced it matters not when you arrive. The selections begin with snacks, such as fried chicken with lemon confit, pickled radish and celtuce (celery lettuce). It is like no “snack” I have ever had, a deliciously prepared creation, equally worthy of entrée status had they chosen to offer it as such. If pasta is what you are craving, you cannot help but fall for the chestnut pappardelle with Blenheim pork ragout, wild mushroom, pecorino and toasted breadcrumbs. By contrast, there’s the Blenheim salad, composed of nine lettuces from the farm, shaved baby vegetables, gouda, and citrus vinaigrette. Uncomplicated in nature, but no less enthralling. Their pan roasted chicken is accompanied by farro risotto, root vegetables, carmelized onion jus and an infinite amount of flavor. The same must be said of their olive oil poached king salmon (puffed quinoa, whole grain mustard, braised endive, and brown butter sauce). You are given the option to architect a four course prix fixe. And on these premises more is more, so it’s something to consider. But that’s all you need think about, because they’ve done the work while you reap the benefits. And it doesn’t get fresher or better than that.

39 Downing St. (off Bedford St.) 212-255-1790 www.masfarmhouse.com

American. Although celebrating their 11th year, it may as well be their 111th, so expert are they at delivering the goods. Everything you’d hope for can be found within these walls (warmth, music, décor, perfect pacing). Notably, I have saved the best for last - the literal dining experience. And it is an experience, far beyond just a meal. You are given the choice of four and six course menus as well as going à la carte. Since the tastes and textures are that good, it would be a true missed opportunity not to indulge in either of the lengthier offerings. In honor of their anniversary, the six course presentation is currently an homage to several favorites. Included are yellowfin tuna, pork crepinettes and milk and dark chocolate layered cremeux, all remarkably distinctive and unforgettable. Not to worry, should you arrive once this tribute has passed, I am certain you will be equally impressed by each and every gift to grace your plate.

328 West 12th St. (corner of Greenwich St.) 212-414-3000 www.recettenyc.com

American. If ever there was a place to go beyond your comfort zone, this is it. The selections are varied and unusual (spot prawn crudo, venison loin, roasted root vegetable raviolo, Berkshire pork belly). Both the room and staff are mellow and inviting. The sage and friendly server suggested creating a tasting menu (five, seven, or ten courses) although ordering conventionally is your prerogative. Choosing to play it safe, I did not take her advice and was ultimately regretful. The two options to which I limited myself were so innovative and delicious, I am sure I would have been blown away by the multiplicity of dishes presented. My loss is your gain (and mine the next time I go back).