43 East 19th St. (Between Park Avenue South and Broadway) 212-780-0800 www.craftrestaurantsinc.com

American. Saying they’ve almost mastered their craft is like saying Streep has almost mastered acting. They know exactly what they’re doing from initial encounter to delicious goodbye — but more about that later. Not only was their greeting kind, but when I returned at a future date, they welcomed me back. Clearly, they must keep track which I found extremely warm and flattering. The same can be said of the room - brown, spacious, and subtly lit. Every enticing course is choreographed with a simultaneous reveal followed by a brief soliloquy describing each dish. Their braised octopus with fingerling potatoes, celery and smoked paprika is, undoubtedly, one of the best I have had. Also awe inspiring were the bass and broccoli rabe. As for dessert, just close your eyes and point to anything on the menu. Parting is such sweet sorrow yet, as you go, you are presented with a swag bag (aka a perfected pastry for an encore the following day). Their performance is pure brilliance. But it’s you who win.

43 East 20th St. (between Broadway and Park Avenue South) 646-682-7105 www.elannyc.com

American. From the moment you’re seated, you get the distinct impression you are going to walk out happy. It may feel like intuition, but the deck at this fledgling spot has been stacked with decades of experience, so you were pretty much guaranteed to be blown away no matter what. While the food is outstanding, the servers are as remarkable as the tastes. It would have been enough had the waitperson reported the specials, but she considered that merely a portion of her role. I learned that my choice of appetizer and entrée would both be prepared with a generous amount of butter. Her analysis and guidance resulted in slightly altering my meal (so good, I had not an ounce of remorse). Their pot au feu, a special, is unmissable.