The Clocktower

Posted on January 18, 2016 by Ciasamia

5 Madison Avenue (corner of 24th St., MetLife Building, 2nd floor) 212-413-4300 www.theclocktowernyc.com

Contemporary. Swanky. It’s a word that doesn’t get a lot of traffic these days, but it’s the first thing that came to mind when I stepped inside the Clocktower. Maybe it’s the rich wood walls or the black and white vintage photos that blanket them. It could be the seamless synchronicity of the staff. Or the pulse of the well heeled crowd. An undeniable feeling of luxuriousness pervades these surroundings, setting the tone for an evening equal parts memorable and delicious. The menu spans intriguingly from mac and cheese to Dover sole. I, myself, indulged in different fare, each dish as wonderful as you could dream. Seafood is clearly a specialty as proven by both the dressed crab (crispy uni, apple batons, lemon purée) and big eye tuna tataki (English cucumber, radish, avocado, ponzu). Their entrées are breathtaking too. I experienced both the cannon of Colorado lamb (slow cooked neck, spiced eggplant, roasted salsify, chanterelle mushrooms, cavolo nero) and dry aged 1/2 lb. burger with bacon, cheddar, Churchill sauce, red onion and some of the best French fries to ever pass my lips. I could not imagine being any happier - but then closed out the night with a pistachio soufflé. This place is the bees knees. I mean YOLO. So get here when you can.

Tia Pol

Posted on December 29, 2015 by Ciasamia

205 10th Avenue (between 22nd and 23rd Sts.) 212-675-8805 www.tiapol.com

Spanish. There’s tapas and there’s tapas. Keep your expectations high and head to Tia Pol. Not only do they bring you dish after delicious dish, they do it with the mellowest of attitudes in the most laid back of spaces. I was immediately hooked on their fried chickpeas, as generous and addictive as a starter could possibly be. This was followed by a grilled, garlic-rubbed baguette (tomato, three sauces, my second addiction of the night). Their shrimp in olive oil with garlic and chili is plentiful and full of personality. When the wonderful waitperson suggested bread for the liquid gold that remained, I happily said yes — it would be lunacy to refuse this offer. Their grilled steak special (fava beans and a chimichurri sauce) was just more proof of how exceptional they are, and when paired with the patatas bravas, a whole other level of brilliant. I attribute this to two things: the outrageous flavor of the entrée and one of the best potato preparations I have ever tasted. Upon completion, I was momentarily conflicted, unsure there was room for dessert. I got over that pretty quickly and committed to the Spanish almond cake with dulce de leche and vanilla ice cream. I do not even want to think about the fact that I could have missed out. At Tia Pol, it all looks so amazingly effortless. But that’s only because they know exactly what they’re doing.

Bespoke Kitchen

Posted on December 23, 2015 by Ciasamia

615 1/2 Hudson St. (between Jane and 12th Sts.) 212-989-3155 www.thebespokekitchen.com

American. Prior to dining here, my perception of the bespoke experience was primarily clothes oriented (those shirts and suits made specifically for the intended and at serious financial expense). To the joy of their patrons, this restaurant does its own tailoring (think food instead of fabric), yet not at an exclusionary cost. Their entrées embrace the customization concept, with locally sourced ingredients and fresh, delicious flavor to match. You choose the protein and preparation (light or rich) and they bring the dish to life. I can speak about the fish as well as the beef. Both the branzino and rib eye were profoundly tasty as were the various vegetables and or potatoes with which they shared their plates. For starters, I indulged in the self-named bacon dumplings (roaming acres pork belly bacon, sake-sriracha aioli) and local market salad with Union Square market fall greens, pomegranate seeds and pecans. As you might guess, ordering old school is as rewarding as personally designing a course. Either way, you are in their outrageously talented hands. So while you’ve been given the wheel, Bespoke Kitchen is truly doing the driving. All that’s left is the decision on how to get yourself there.

Black Barn

Posted on December 20, 2015 by Ciasamia

19 East 26th St. (between Madison and Fifth Aves.) 212-265-5959 www.blackbarnrestaurant.com

American. When I think dinner in Manhattan, barn would probably be the last word to enter my consciousness. That is, up until a few hours ago. Because I have now broken bread at Black Barn, and my former thought process instantly went bye bye. While the name is accurate, the vibe is purely NYC. The crowd, the room and the genius produced in their kitchen are as cosmopolitan as it gets. Upon arrival, they presented gazpacho of cauliflower and caramelized onion — a delicious indicator of what to expect the rest of the evening. I followed this with Maine lobster salad (little gem, Thai curry dressing, mango and scallions) and tried the white pizza (cheese fondue, mangalitsa spicy coppa, arugula, truffle oil). Though they could not be more different, what they share is an outrageous amount of flavor (the pizza rivaling any the city can produce). I must not overlook the Amish chicken with ricotta gnocchi, winter vegetable, grapes, parmesan. Or the grilled swordfish (Sicilian caponata and spinach salad in a light mustard dressing). Really, enough cannot be said about each of the dishes I encountered. The meal ended with chocolate soufflé, vanilla sauce infused. It requires 15 minutes to prepare, but I’d have waited twice that, so wowing was every warm and wonderful bite. Besides, it gave me extra time to soak in the Black Barn experience. You’ll walk out thinking hey! (and not the straw kind) ’cause this ain’t no place to square dance.

Piora

Posted on December 17, 2015 by Ciasamia

430 Hudson Street (between Leroy and Morton Sts.) 212-960-3801 www.pioranyc.com

American. When an innovative restaurant serves a prix fixe, I instantly imagine the meal will be something special. Clearly Piora has absolutely no intention of proving me wrong. Their three course creations are so incredibly good, special doesn’t even begin to cover it. My experience took flight with market vegetables (variations, thousand island). They state not which. I could not tell. I do not care. The tastes, in concert, are as delicious as you can possibly dream (although I had never conceived of a symphony such as this). Another offering was hiramasa (yellowtail sushi with apple, basil and fresh wasabi), an equally wonderful way to start the evening. I could go on just as effusively about the second course, having experienced both the spectacular bucatini (black garlic, Dungeness crab, maitake, chili) and gnocchi (local mushrooms and fonduta fontina Val D’Aosta). Both are ideal entrees to the entrée, their lamb selection (with heirloom beans, artichoke and cassoulet flavors) as outstanding as all that had come before it. I assumed any of the desserts would be perfection. And the German chocolate mousse with butter pecan and coconut lime proved me right for the second time that night. I’d love to take credit for being so wise, but my only contribution was lifting the fork. And that is all it takes at Piora.

Casa

Posted on December 13, 2015 by Ciasamia

72 Bedford Street (corner of Commerce St.) 212-366-9410. www.casarestaurant.com

Brazilian. Hear someone say Siri and I bet the first thing that comes to mind is not an off the charts Brazilian dish of crab meat baked with tomatoes, parmesan and bread crumbs. Yet, once you’ve experienced the ridiculously flavorful Casquinha de Siri, it’ll be pretty much impossible to think of anything else. Such is one of the many incredible creations you might encounter at Casa. You could easily follow this with another bit of Brazilian brilliance, perhaps the Camarão ao alho e óleo (aka shrimp sautéed with garlic and extra virgin olive oil). Do not be fooled by the deceptively simple sounding description. The taste is completely compelling. Tempting stews are among the main courses, including Xinxim de Galinha (Bahia’s organic chicken and shrimp with tomatoes, cilantro, onion, white rice). This combination doesn’t just work, it woos. Whenever I’ve walked by, it’s hard not to notice they are packed with happy people. For delicious Brazilian on Bedford St, this is the place to be. If you don’t believe me, ask Siri.

Tipsy Parson

Posted on December 8, 2015 by Ciasamia

156 Ninth Avenue (between 19th and 20th Sts.) 212-620-4545 www.tipsyparson.com

Southern. Visit the Tipsy Parson website, and you will learn they’ve trademarked the term Belly-Filling Goodness. Good thing, because they could not be any more deserving of ownership. Their down home menu is dripping with a wealth of fabulous comfort food done up right. They could just serve corn dogs, but theirs are waygu beef, the dipping sauce champagne vinaigrette. If hot dogs had an opposite it would probably be salad, and their Upstate Orchard incarnation is as incredible as those weenies on a stick. With honey crisp apples, nashi pears, celery root, walnuts, pickled radish, and apple cider vinaigrette, it is a supreme union of texture and taste. I dare anyone to take a bite and not have the word fresh instantaneously spring to mind. Their half rack of BBQ ribs (Carolina red vinegar sauce and shaved onions) takes “falling off the bone” from cliché to reality. It’s accompanied by corn bread and honey butter, the perfect pairing if ever there was one. I also experienced Aunt Linda’s Special Duck Fat Chicken-Fried Turkey Steak with buttermilk mashed potatoes and country gravy which is worth every syllable. If you leave room for dessert, there are several tempting treats including the Grasshopper (mint mousse, chocolate streusel, chocolate cremeaux and whipped cream). Yes, it is as good as it sounds, even better if that’s possible. It would be bad manners not to mention the hospitality, the server so astonishingly warm and friendly, it’s like we knew each other forever. Please don’t wait that long to get there, y’all.

Galli LES (Lower East Side)

Posted on December 6, 2015 by Ciasamia

98 Rivington Street (corner of Ludlow St.) 212-466-1888 (also in Soho, 45 Mercer St. between Broome and Grand Sts. 212-966-9288) www.gallirestaurant.com

Italian. If this were a film, Galli would be that local place where people go to be happy. Their staff is cast to perfection, the server, sweet and kind as could be. The less principal players are just as invested - pouring, clearing, and doing all they can to assure you an excellent time. Cut to the meal. A feast for more than just the eyes, it delivers everything you would hope. Their baked clams are amazing (my one regret choosing six instead of twelve). It’s a terrific lead in to the chicken parm, so large and delicious I was tempted to give it a Standing O. The oven roasted branzino is equally flavor filled, its herb marinade transporting the catch to a whole new level. Although this fish requires no accompaniment, the asparagus and cherry tomatoes give a flawless performance. When it was time for dessert, the waitperson raved about their tiramisu which totally lived up to the reputation. I also tried Mario’s berries served with whipped cream. The assortment is varied and, like every other dish this evening, larger than life. Galli is truly the perfect neighborhood spot. But if isn’t in yours, DO NOT let that stand in your way.

Colicchio & Sons

Posted on November 28, 2015 by Ciasamia

85 Tenth Avenue (between 15th and 16th Sts.) 212-400-6699 www.craftrestaurantsinc.com

American. “Nice to see you” were the first words the waitperson spoke. And although we had never met, the kindness was genuine and an initial indication of how much Colicchio & Sons truly care. They prove this repeatedly throughout the meal in so very many ways. The décor, the music and perfectly attentive, yet unobtrusive, service cannot help but enhance your evening exponentially. We haven’t even gotten to the food (which you can probably guess is no less ideal than the stellar treatment you will undoubtedly receive). Choose between the standard menu and four course prix fixe. You can’t go wrong either way, so good are they at what they do. The baby romaine with buttermilk, quinoa and smoked salmon is a testament to both texture and taste. Also engaging is their baby octopus, uniquely accompanied by citrus, caramelized endive and chorizo vinaigrette. The prix fixe presents hamachi with cucumber, oyster velouté and caviar followed by one of the best realizations of rigatoni to ever grace a plate. Some credit must be given to the broccoli rabe and prosciutto which ensconce this deliciously crafted al dente dish. The only decision was venison or fish. Although I am sure they are equally outstanding, committing to the braised halibut with salsify and carrot-cumin jus left not one regret. The mocha éclair with spiced pear, malt and toasted marshmallow ice cream is as good as it sounds. But this is true of every taste, including an early surprise offering of extraordinary hot apple cider and a freshly made muffin (presented for take home when you are ready to depart). As I was leaving, I made sure to let the host and hostess know what an absolutely wonderful experience it was, the sentiment 100% heartfelt.

Bodega Negra

Posted on November 21, 2015 by Ciasamia

355 West 16th Street (between Eighth and Ninth Avenues) 212-229-2336 bodeganegranyc.com

Mexican. The first thing you notice is the large rotating ball suspended from the ceiling. Not unlike a mirror ball, but covered in pennies, it sets the tone. To be clear, Bodega Negra isn’t just hot — it’s smoking. The room, the music, the crowd, the vibration. It so happens their food is incredibly tasty, but that just feels like a bonus at a place with the caché of an amazing club filled with fabulous partygoers. The lobster tacos (chile morita butter, chipotle salsa and roasted tomato) are spicy and very satisfying. Yet even more worship inducing was their shrimp ceviche, possibly the best I have ever had. I also could not get enough of the fajitas cabron, the perfectly prepared skirt steak an ideal tenant for the fresh, homemade corn tortillas. The lamb barbacoa with salsa borracha is slow roasted, the process completed atop a flame before your very eyes. If you don’t leave room for dessert, you will miss one of the best chocolate infusions of your life. The Don Huevo is an invention of epic proportion. There appears a huge white chocolate dome, sporting a dark chocolate mustache. Hot caramel sauce is then poured from above, its melting action quick to reveal the dark chocolate molten cake, negra modelo and cinnamon ice cream within. They even add a chocolate scorpion for good measure. But everything about Bodega Negra is good. Make that amazing. Get there soon.

Balaboosta

Posted on November 15, 2015 by Ciasamia

214 Mulberry Street (between Spring and Prince Sts.) 212-966-7366 www.balaboostanyc.com

Mediterranean, Middle Eastern. When I think Mulberry St., calzones and cannolis instantly come to mind. But that is my bad because Little Italy goes waaaaaay beyond the boot. Balaboosta is Middle Eastern in nature, the Mediterranean menu replete with more delicious encounters than you can shake a stickball bat at. Their hummus “Mortar and Pestle” is just that, overfilled with one of the most addictive recipes I have ever tasted. You would expect to find bruschetta on this block, but not their smoked eggplant interpretation with fresh herb salad and silan (date honey). The grilled branzino (tzatziki, freekah, grilled lemon) and spice rubbed hanger steak with rainbow peewee potatoes, cipollini and tomato vinaigrette both readily inspire devotion. I felt just as strongly about their hazelnut chocolate mousse, the house whipped cream and pistachio brittle enhancing an already ovation worthy dessert. Patrons are constantly pouring in, but that is no surprise, considering the vast parade of flavor each memorable dish puts forth. This ‘hood is legendary for bringing the Italian, so some may think Mediterranean is out of their league. To which I am now forced to say — fuhgeddaboudit.

Blenheim

Posted on November 8, 2015 by Ciasamia

283 West 12th Street (corner of West 4th St.) 212-243-7073 www.blenheimhill.com

American. Farm to table is a term that gets thrown around a lot lately. Yet here, it is not simply a trend, it’s the gospel. Blenheim is named for their farm upstate where the magic begins, where free roaming animals are bred and raised and a hydroponic greenhouse nurtures countless herbs and vegetables until the time is right. Their menu is light years from static, guided by the seasons and that ideal debut of each cherished ingredient. My visit coincided with several outrageously unforgettable dishes, although I am convinced it matters not when you arrive. The selections begin with snacks, such as fried chicken with lemon confit, pickled radish and celtuce (celery lettuce). It is like no “snack” I have ever had, a deliciously prepared creation, equally worthy of entrée status had they chosen to offer it as such. If pasta is what you are craving, you cannot help but fall for the chestnut pappardelle with Blenheim pork ragout, wild mushroom, pecorino and toasted breadcrumbs. By contrast, there’s the Blenheim salad, composed of nine lettuces from the farm, shaved baby vegetables, gouda, and citrus vinaigrette. Uncomplicated in nature, but no less enthralling. Their pan roasted chicken is accompanied by farro risotto, root vegetables, carmelized onion jus and an infinite amount of flavor. The same must be said of their olive oil poached king salmon (puffed quinoa, whole grain mustard, braised endive, and brown butter sauce). You are given the option to architect a four course prix fixe. And on these premises more is more, so it’s something to consider. But that’s all you need think about, because they’ve done the work while you reap the benefits. And it doesn’t get fresher or better than that.

Blue Hill

Posted on November 5, 2015 by Ciasamia

75 Washington Place (between MacDougal St. and Sixth Avenue) 212-539-1776 www.bluehillfarm.com

American. Visit their website, and you will learn the ingredients they select hail from farms in Westchester and Massachusetts. Taste what they create, and every bite you take will prove it’s true. It does not get any fresher or more innovative than this. Blue Hill offers a six course tasting menu designed by the chef. Alternatively, you can make your own selections amongst the four course option, as I did. The smoked seckel pears (bell peppers and fromage blanc) are by turns sweet, surprising, and entirely unforgettable. String bean salad might sound straightforward, but with tarragon, nectarines and hazelnuts in its orbit, you have entered a whole other dimension. This morning’s farm egg with chanterelles and hen of the woods mushrooms will leave you mesmerized. As will the roasted fluke with Manhattan clam chowder. It is safe to say you have never, ever experienced a preparation like this. Blue Hill takes our preconceptions and rejoices in turning them on their heads. Their “gnocchi disguised as tortellini” with purple potato, shiitake mushrooms and herb broth may be an illusion - But there is no masquerading the flavor, astounding beyond belief. The freedom ranger chicken (salsify, dehydrated grapes) is just one more example of a kitchen that knows no bounds. The dining room is pretty wonderful as well, with tones of gray, the lighting low, the staff consummate professionals. Back on their site, you will also find the word artisanal. The dictionary should take heed and replace the current definition with Blue Hill.

Union Square Café

Posted on November 1, 2015 by Ciasamia

21 East 16th St. (between Union Square W. and Fifth Avenue) 212-243-4020 www.unionsquarecafe.com

American. Once in a very long while, you go somewhere and think, “It doesn’t matter what I order, because anything I get will be amazing.” That kind of faith might seem like a gamble, but you cannot lose at the Union Square Café. With 30 years on their side, everything is choreographed to perfection. The clearing of plates supremely timed, your water glass perpetually filled. I began with the slow poached egg, wiggling upon bottarga, crisp polenta, and Jimmy Nardello peppers. I’ve never met Jimmy, but if I did, would thank him profusely for the part he played in one of the best dishes I have ever had. Even their salad will blow you away, the burrata and mustard greens amidst pan fried garlic bread and chili oil. Then there’s lobster risotto — fine herbs, mascarpone, and further proof of their undeniable artistry. Choosing between desserts was difficult, but banana tart with honey-vanilla ice cream and macadamia prevailed. The server, who could not possibly have been more pleasant, said it’s been on the menu since day one. Just taste it and you’ll know why. Some things do change, including their address. Closing briefly at the end of the year, they’ll open in April a few blocks uptown. What are the chances of continued success? I’m betting 100 percent.

Almayass

Posted on October 25, 2015 by Ciasamia

24 East 21st St. (between Broadway and Park Avenue South) 212-473-3100 www.almayassnyc.com

Armenian, Lebanese. Some restaurants want you to be happy. Others make it their mission. Such is Almayass, an Armenian and Lebanese dining experience thoroughly dedicated to your enjoyment. Before reaching the table, I was warmly greeted by no less than three people. The space is instantly inviting, with plenty of breathing room and muted shades strategically dotted by eye catching art. It’s the ideal environment in which to be spoiled and spoiled you will be. Their Armenian salad is a work of art in itself, a brightly colored combination of finely chopped vine tomato, green bell pepper, onion, and Persian cucumber. The mouhammara (crushed walnut, red bell pepper paste and pomegranate molasses spread) finds a perfect home atop an abundance of crunchy and soft pita brought tableside upon arrival. There is also much to be said for their cubed filet mignon, the decision to charbroil beyond inspirational. The dessert of choice was Ossmalieh Almayass - golden crispy sweet vermicelli, filled with ashta (cream) then topped with traditional floss halva. It is served with a syrup of rose water and lemon to be poured liberally from above. They call the syrup simple, yet the taste is anything but. Even the size of the cappuccino speaks volumes. As does the attentive management who stop by to inquire about the meal and service, addressing their guests by name. The success of your evening means a great deal to you. But it clearly means everything to them.

Il Mulino

Posted on October 14, 2015 by Ciasamia

86 W. 3rd St. (between Thompson and Sullivan Sts.) 212-673-3783 www.ilmulino.com

Italian. Fried zucchini. Aged parmigiano. Salami. Mussels. Bruschetta. And the menu hasn’t even arrived. The quantity, no doubt significant, pales in comparison to the quality, a testament to the extraordinary nature of what has been placed before you. The freshness of the bruschetta alone deserves its own paragraph, the flavor a gift that is simply unrivaled. Next came a recitation of specials — numerous, descriptive and mesmerizing. It could not be more apparent that anything selected would be otherworldly. Such was their shrimp and scallops rollatini with fontina cheese, the grilled octopus, the sea bass livornese. Sensing it would be unforgivable to miss the actual menu, I experienced the chicken parmigiana. And it was an experience as it fills the dinner plate, not just in diameter but absolute perfection. I could go on about each creation individually, but there really is no point, because every dish is masterfully realized. You may have had them elsewhere, but never like this. How do you know you’ve hit gold? When you end the meal with tartufo and the whipped cream is nearly as unforgettable as the dessert. Il Mulino has been spreading pure bliss since 1982. If you haven’t had the privilege, do yourself the greatest possible favor and indulge, pronto.

Lavo

Posted on September 26, 2015 by Ciasamia

39 East 58th Street (between Park and Madison Aves.) 212-750-5588 www.lavony.com

Italian. I have to thank the Pope, without whose urban presence I would have dined downtown as usual. Lucky for me, his arrival led to Lavo. You will find it in the 50s. But, once inside, I would swear I was seated two or three miles south. The space, crowd and service all bring a below 14th Street sensibility. I cannot, in fact, speak enough about the server who, with such knowledge, enthusiasm and all around nice guyness, made an incredible meal even better. Not easy, considering the brilliance begins with garlic bread and tomato sauce arriving moments after you do. I could have gone home happy then, but would have missed the baked clams oreganato, yet another completely ingenious ode to garlic. Still, classics aren’t all they do, proven by the chopped salad “Louie” (assorted vegetables, house vinaigrette) topped generously with lobster and shrimp. They are really good with fish, witnessed again in the grilled branzino panzanella — ciabatta, heirloom tomato, arugula. This and their chicken parmigiano are listed under House Specialties which is all that need be said. Beyond that, they are well versed in steak should you happen to be in the mood. Could it possibly get any better? Yes it could, because you have not yet had dessert. Among the countless temptations, I was drawn to the Oreo Zeppole, described as double stuffed with malted vanilla milkshake. Who puts oreos inside a zeppole? Clearly the smartest person on earth. Actually the second smartest, since you will take first prize when you decide to make the pilgrimage here.

Wallsé

Posted on September 13, 2015 by Ciasamia

344 West 11th Street (corner of Washington St.) 212-352-2300 www.kg-ny.com/WALLSE

Austrian. Up until last evening, I must admit my knowledge of Austria was basically limited to Arnold and The Sound of Music. Of this, I am not proud. However, things have quickly changed, thanks to the brilliance that is Wallsé. Lesson one: “Valz-ay”. Call it what you please, the creations emerging from their kitchen are nothing less than spectacular. The waitperson was the kindest of souls, proactive in his willingness to educate and advise. He suggested several signature dishes including spätzle. For my fellow uninitiated, an egg noodle or small dumpling, here provocatively adorned — rabbit, tarragon, corn and chanterelles. There is no true comparison in my arsenal of flavor (it does not taste like chicken). With octopus, I am very well acquainted. Yet, never in the company of red bell peppers, fennel and saffron (an inspired idea to say the least). The Icelandic cod, embellished by kohlrabi, spinach and Riesling sauce offers still another inventively compelling twist. They then prove that steak is not just steak through their interpretation, Beef Strip Loin “Zwiebelrostbraten”. Lesson two: onion topped rib roast. But the onions are cipollini and share space with potato rösti. It is a superpower in its own right. Of the many authentic desserts at your whim, I can speak to the thoroughly luscious Salzburger Nockerl. Lesson three: a sweet soufflé, presently resting atop a host of huckleberries. Have it once, and you will spend the rest of your life making sure history repeats itself. So that is what I’ve learned, but this is not about me. Wallsé gets an A+.

Nai Tapas

Posted on September 12, 2015 by Ciasamia

174 First Avenue (between 10th and 11th Sts.) 212-677-1030 www.ntbnyc.com

Spanish, Tapas. Right before I went inside, a guy on the street turned to his friends and said, “All they do is tapas. And they’re good”. As I was about to learn, truer words were never spoken. Every one of the dishes I ordered made me happy (and twice, delirious enough to go back for seconds). Take the gambas al ajillo. It’s shrimp. It’s garlic sauce. And such an amazing combination of flavor, not grabbing the bread to absorb every last drop would be loco. The croquetas de pollo, no less attention getting, a wonderful lead in to the sea bass wrapped in white toast and crunchy deliciousness. Their albondiguillas estofadas is a multisyllabled way to say meatballs in brandy sauce. They could also just rename it WOW and define it perfectly. There’s actually a lot more wow to go round, as evidenced by both the tartufo and chocolate infused churros. I wonder if they thought, “Why just serve churros when you can deliver pure, inspired genius?” because that’s exactly what you experience. Then there’s the server, who could not have been nicer and the room, a continuous stream of fun. But it all comes back to the food. The guy on the street was right. There’s no going wrong at this tapas standout.

Asia de Cuba

Posted on September 6, 2015 by Ciasamia

415 Lafayette St. (between East 4th St. and Astor Place) 212-726-7755 www.asiadecuba.com

Asian-Cuban. Do you believe in reincarnation? If not, you will surely change your mind having spent the evening at Asia de Cuba. After a four year hiatus following a nearly 15 year run in midtown, they recently reopened their doors on Lafayette. And while the neighborhood may be novel, the forethought, originality and care found in each dish is clearly nothing new to them. Their ropa vieja spring rolls — slow braised with rocoto sweet and sour — as well as the glazed black cod (orange mojo, avocado poblano purée) are positively addicting. The palomilla (flat iron steak) is ginger and papaya marinated with tatsoi, pickled vegetables, chili mojo and magic. Equally impressive is the array of homemade desserts, outstanding, eclectic and not to be overlooked. The tres leches de chocolate is both sheltered below and enhanced by an insanely innovative chocolate Szechuan peppercorn ice cream. Yet, the talent within these walls extends beyond innovation to scholarship. The waitperson, newly minted, could not have been more well versed had he been serving for decades. His knowledge was then rivaled by a level of warmth and consideration that only heightened the experience. The same must be said of the tables, generously sized and spaced, Latin background music and candlelit surroundings. Asia de Cuba. They’re back. And we are so much better off for it.

Tuome

Posted on August 17, 2015 by Ciasamia

536 East 5th Street (between Avenues A and B) 646-833-7811 www.tuomenyc.com

American. Small. Big. Sides. Such are the deceptively simple categories into which the Tuome menu is divided. Yet do not be fooled, as the flavors your taste buds will soon experience are anything but. Each and every dish brought a twist I had never before encountered. The chicken liver, no plain pâté, is a mesmerizing mousse complete with NY maple to be spread upon milk bread. And octopus has found its destiny. It arrives in brown butter and pork xo (a spicy seafood sauce) only to be joined by a purée of fingerling potatoes. I could not have been more in awe and the entrees hadn’t even arrived. Of course, they don’t merely make skate, they mastermind it with bell pepper, long bean and wheat berry. Their lobster Newberg is generous, spicy and escorted by tripe and chow fun. It is also singular, mind blowing and incomparable. Even their sides are brilliant. Has corn ever before partnered with massaman curry, kaffir lime and crème fraîche? And was it ever this incredible? Both are equally impossible to imagine. Unable to wait to be asked, I had to know if there was dessert. The news could not have been better: Cookies and cream Rice Krispies beneath vanilla ice cream. Surprisingly, all this genius comes your way in the most casual of surroundings. The staff so caring, the mood so low key, the dinner beyond any and all expectation.

Blue Ribbon Brasserie

Posted on August 9, 2015 by Ciasamia

97 Sullivan Street (between Spring and Prince Sts.) 212-274-0404 www.blueribbonrestaurants.com

American. When a restaurant debuts in 1992, few could expect it would still be here today. Longevity like that isn’t just impressive, it’s nearly nonexistent. But you know what’s even better? After more than two decades, the Blue Ribbon Brasserie doesn’t phone it in for one single second. They take their service, the menu and even their music as seriously as if they opened an hour ago. Here you find matzoh ball soup, tofu ravioli and escargot mere words away from fried chicken, hummus and paella. And while the offerings may seem purely random, the execution is unequivocally not. Allow me to speak to the hummus as it surely spoke to me. It is one of the best I have had, encircled on the plate by chopped onions, olives, tomatoes, endive and an over the top portion of pita. The hanger steak, delicious in its own right, is made even more so by the onion rings and countless wild mushrooms that accompany it. I was compelled to try two of their specials, which totally lived up to that billing. If you’re a fan of fried rock shrimp, your devotion will multiply while dipping it in lemon cayenne mayo. And the branzino (steamed, cherry tomatoed and sweetpea pureed) is yet another inspired combination. Then there’s Chocolate Bruno (flourless, chilled and tag teamed by three scoops of ice cream). Don’t ask. Just taste. So there you have it. The Blue Ribbon Brasserie. Thankfully here today. Blissfully far, far, far from gone tomorrow.

The Dutch

Posted on August 8, 2015 by Ciasamia

131 Sullivan Street (corner of Prince St.) 212-677-6200 www.thedutchnyc.com

American. If there’s one thing Soho knows, it’s cool…And restaurants…And restaurants that exude cool. With options on every corner, you ask, how can I possibly choose? That would be tough, if The Dutch didn’t make it so easy. You walk through the door to a palpably hot vibe. Yet, they never act like they’re doing you a favor. The greeting is friendly, the server has your back, and the room is filled with people happy to be there. Yes, you can feel it, but you can taste it too, in every creative and clearly thought out dish. The octopus and squid has pineapple, hearts of palm, and a ridiculous amount of flavor. Their trout is cornmeal crusted with summer beans and mustard, the perfect pairing of crunch and delicious. As for dessert, I don’t have a clue whose idea it was to create a carrot cake sundae (pineapple, walnuts and cream cheese ice cream), but that person is a genius. I know, so many choices in Soho. Well, allow me to make it simple. Eenie. Meenie. Miney. Go!

Sessanta

Posted on August 1, 2015 by Ciasamia

60 Thompson Street (between Broome and Spring Sts.) 212-219-8119 www.sessantanyc.com

Italian. Coming across an incredible new Italian restaurant is not unlike finding a four leaf clover. Discover one and the wave of excitement and good fortune is undeniable. Such is the feeling from the first bite at Sessanta. Ordering their marinated calamari, I had no idea its effect would be so profound. In combination with puffed black rice, celery hearts and lemon, it is simply a mix of tastes and textures like nothing else. Unforgettable in both crunch and flavor, I would swear I was dining in Italy. As I then quickly learned, they are as accomplished on land as they are at sea. The polpette di maiale (sausage meatballs, red peppers and Sicilian honey) is, without a doubt, another heavenly mosaic. I am sure it will come as no surprise that they know entrees as intimately as firsts. The roasted branzino with meyer lemon sits atop an herb and spring vegetable salad so compelling, it could be a dish in its own right. But don’t get me wrong, the harmony is absolute bliss. This is equally true of the evening, ensconced as you are in one of several spacious and stylized rooms, all the while attended to by a committed and gracious staff that doesn’t miss a beat. How lucky can you get?

Tasca Chino (CLOSED)

Posted on July 25, 2015 by Ciasamia

245 Park Avenue South (between 19th and 20th Sts.) 212-335-2220 www.tascachino.com

Spanish-Chinese. Where can you find Spanish and Chinese in the same place, let alone the same dish? At Tasca Chino, an outrageously innovative new restaurant which marries the two in a thoroughly inspired fusion of cuisine. It is anything but a gimmick, with tastes so compelling, I wished I’d been having this all my life. They’ve dreamt up offerings like garbanzo frito and kimchi (crispy chickpea cake, housemade kimchi, ponzu, wasabi mayo) and ginger glazed lobster and shrimp with spicy bamboo shoots, thai basil and red chili. But dreaming isn’t enough and they have found a way to deliver creation after creation (see their whole roasted dorade with smoked kale, oyster mushrooms and salsa verde for further proof). Yet, that is not the end of the story. In fact, the dessert was so mind blowing, I considered opening with it. They designed (and I mean designed) this Chocolate Bomb. With piping hot chocolate drizzled from above, its hard chocolate exterior melts away to reveal the passion fruit mousse, raspberry and mango crumble hidden beneath. Although seemingly impossible, the flavor then exceeds the show. It all happens within a candle filled space, the warm and attentive service as memorable as the brightly colored paintings. Anyone can be different. But what they’ve accomplished cannot be ignored.

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