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Merakia

www.merakia.com

5 West 21st Street (between 5th and 6th Avenues)

212-380-1950

Greek.  At Merakia, you’ll be wrapped in the toastiest of hospitality.  Because while the meal is all-important, so is treating you like a blood relative.  I began with Katerina’s keftedes (pan seared angus meatballs on a bed of ouzo infused tzatziki).  Each caringly crafted orb a carnivore’s delight.

If you swing the other way, I cannot campaign enough for the marouli (Greek chopped salad with romaine hearts, frisée, scallion, radish, tomato, feta dressing).  Nothing that healthy should taste this incredible.  Then there’s mountainthief’s kleftiko.

Presented in carved out karveli bread, it’s the ideal blend of lamb stew, two cheeses, and kleptomania (see menu for history).  Also worthy of swiping, the black tiger king prawns, simply grilled with ladolemono sauce.

Every dish is plentiful, but it would be another crime if you passed on dessert.  I sampled the karidopita (Greek walnut and honey cake), yogurt panna cotta (shaved chocolate, walnuts, zest) and baklava, all lovingly presented.

It’s not easy to say goodbye to such gratifying warmth.  Or abundance of wonderful food.  Hey, ma, you listening?