Contra

American. Peek in the window and you may come to the conclusion this is a modest dining spot. Glance at the seemingly uncomplicated menu, and you might think it again. But spend an evening indulging and you’ll discover that a meal at low key Contra is nothing less than paradise.

I began with the tomatoes. That’s right, tomatoes. Adorned with cherry, olives and ricotta salata they were elevated to a vegetable I had never before encountered.

Next, the hiramasa (ramp kimchi, mustard greens and raspberry). Fish and raspberry? Yes, yes, a thousand times yes.

At Contra, fish is abundant and abundantly finessed. The crab and potato ecrase (sea bean, yuzu, radish) makes you question why crab and mashed potatoes aren’t constantly united.

Their take on skate (mushrooms, shishitos, laurel cream) is yet another stellar creation. The seafood, the vegetables. The mastery.

Displayed once again in the guise of grilled Maine lobster (sauce vin jaune, gem lettuce, English peas). An exquisite combination destined to dot your memory long after you leave.

But before you do, do not skip dessert. Their apricot and burnt vanilla (apricot tea, burnt vanilla oil) is sheer confection wizardry. How else to explain how such a simple, two ingredient finale could be so spectacularly layered on your tongue?

The offerings at Contra change constantly, but worry not. Since they get everything right, you can never go wrong.