24 East 21st Street (between Park Avenue South and Broadway)
646-649-4805
French. Mister French relocated from their Bowery digs. While the menu made some changes, the downtown vibe lives on.
Thanks in large part to the cushy, black banquettes and gorgeous, massive chandeliers that came along for the ride.
Also still on tap, the blue crab pomme frites, beyond addictive in the presence of bernaise, lemon confit and black sea salt.
Plus the highly enticing tuna sashimi (avocado, vegetable crudités, ponzu, chili aioli). As good as remembered.
Since my past visit below 14th Street, they’ve added the French wedge. Salade extraordinaire with smoked bacon, fourme d’ambert, cherry tomato, tarragon mustard.
For the true experience Française, you won’t regret the seared duck breast. The parsnip, baby bok choy, toasted sesame and poached apple lends a superiority not often found on the duck docket. C’est magnifique!
If you’re thinking seafood entrée, the chilean sea bass is the sweetest I’ve ever tasted and a triple threat with caviar and lobster. Add the melted leek and potato rosti and you’re in the midst of true magic.
Of the nearly half dozen desserts, I explored the crème brûlée with pistachio sandies (aka cookies). Their brûlée is a butterscotch incarnation, fabulous as it is unique.
But if you’re feeling meringue-ish, try the passion fruit kiss. An Insta worthy confection of raspberries and almonds drizzled with strawberry hibiscus tea.
Bottom line? Mister French grooves like a club while still all about the food. The only thing missing are their DJs. Who they say they’re thinking of bringing back. Which will only make this very good thing even better.