188 Avenue A (at 12th St.) 212-254-5660 www.auzaatar.com

Arabian-French. I am a sucker for tiny, twinkly lights. That’s why I felt so warm and welcomed the second I walked through their door. It’s impossible not to feel at home here, between the incredibly inviting surroundings, menu and staff. I decided to bypass traditional hummus for one topped with sautéed lamb and pine nuts (hummus bi lahmeh); it was as delicious as you might think. I also indulged in two of the specials, soujouk cigars (spicy beef sausage with their blend of five cheeses in phyllo) and riz a daj (minced beef garnished with nuts and tender boneless chicken over rice with yogurt cucumber). Both dishes, Middle Eastern in nature, were unforgettably tasty as was the sautéed shrimp (olive oil, garlic, white wine). When it was time for dessert, I switched continents and went crepe (Nutella, fresh bananas, nuts, no regrets). Au Za’atar has an undeniably clear command of the globe, but luckily you won’t have to travel far to experience it.