344 West 11th Street (corner of Washington St.) 212-352-2300 www.kg-ny.com/WALLSE
Austrian. Up until last evening, I must admit my knowledge of Austria was basically limited to Arnold and The Sound of Music. Of this, I am not proud. However, things have quickly changed, thanks to the brilliance that is Wallsé. Lesson one: “Valz-ay”. Call it what you please, the creations emerging from their kitchen are nothing less than spectacular. The waitperson was the kindest of souls, proactive in his willingness to educate and advise. He suggested several signature dishes including spätzle. For my fellow uninitiated, an egg noodle or small dumpling, here provocatively adorned — rabbit, tarragon, corn and chanterelles. There is no true comparison in my arsenal of flavor (it does not taste like chicken). With octopus, I am very well acquainted. Yet, never in the company of red bell peppers, fennel and saffron (an inspired idea to say the least). The Icelandic cod, embellished by kohlrabi, spinach and Riesling sauce offers still another inventively compelling twist. They then prove that steak is not just steak through their interpretation, Beef Strip Loin “Zwiebelrostbraten”. Lesson two: onion topped rib roast. But the onions are cipollini and share space with potato rösti. It is a superpower in its own right. Of the many authentic desserts at your whim, I can speak to the thoroughly luscious Salzburger Nockerl. Lesson three: a sweet soufflé, presently resting atop a host of huckleberries. Have it once, and you will spend the rest of your life making sure history repeats itself. So that is what I’ve learned, but this is not about me. Wallsé gets an A+.