21 East 16th St. (between Union Square W. and Fifth Avenue) 212-243-4020 www.unionsquarecafe.com
American. Once in a very long while, you go somewhere and think, “It doesn’t matter what I order, because anything I get will be amazing.” That kind of faith might seem like a gamble, but you cannot lose at the Union Square Café. With 30 years on their side, everything is choreographed to perfection. The clearing of plates supremely timed, your water glass perpetually filled. I began with the slow poached egg, wiggling upon bottarga, crisp polenta, and Jimmy Nardello peppers. I’ve never met Jimmy, but if I did, would thank him profusely for the part he played in one of the best dishes I have ever had. Even their salad will blow you away, the burrata and mustard greens amidst pan fried garlic bread and chili oil. Then there’s lobster risotto — fine herbs, mascarpone, and further proof of their undeniable artistry. Choosing between desserts was difficult, but banana tart with honey-vanilla ice cream and macadamia prevailed. The server, who could not possibly have been more pleasant, said it’s been on the menu since day one. Just taste it and you’ll know why. Some things do change, including their address. Closing briefly at the end of the year, they’ll open in April a few blocks uptown. What are the chances of continued success? I’m betting 100 percent.
.