173 Ludlow Street (between East Houston and Stanton Sts.) 212-353-3353 www.trenewyork.com
Italian. Tre can take the most traditional of Italian dishes and make it sing. An aria. Their spaghetti al pomodoro (cherry tomato, basil, parmigiano) could not be simpler. Or more remarkable. The meatballs are optional, but please opt in because you will be even further entranced when you commit. For something completely unexpected, try the watermelon salad (feta, mint, arugula). I had never before experienced this fruit in grilled form and my next indulgence can’t come soon enough. Also delicious, the bocconcini (fried mozzarella bites, spicy tomato sauce) proving the kitchen is truly a wizard of sauce. They also know pasta as the ravioli fritti will attest (fried ravioli, ricotta, salami, black pepper). Should you be in a seafood mood, the whole branzino (lemony potatoes, red onions, capers, greens) is color and flavor rich. But it would be wrong to utter the word rich and not pay homage to the tortino di cioccolato. It is absolutely everything a chocolate dessert was meant to be. Before I close, I must admit I was tempted to begin with the lighting. Normally I would never consider leading with a discussion of bulbs. Yet if you happen to arrive on a beautiful night and find yourself seated out back, you will be treated to walls sprinkled with tiny white lights. The effect is transformative. And will heighten your evening well beyond the exceptional food.