15 West 18th Street (between 5th and 6th Avenues) 212-229-9500 www.thegandernyc.com
American. The Gander menu is uncomplicated. Or not. The very tasty parmesan rosemary bread with butter and “Fork & Knife” Caesar would make you think – simple. That is, until indulging in the warm lentils (poached egg, mushroom, pecorino). Had I not read the ingredients, I would never have been able to describe this dish (beyond the fact that it was addicting and incredibly delicious). The combination of flavor and texture thrilled my mouth with every bite. I can always tell I’ve been captivated if I begin to mourn toward the end. Such was the case, but fretting was kept to a minimum with the arrival of my entrée. I found happiness in the “Hot Pot” (shellfish, tomato and homemade fish dumplings). It’s a spoonworthy excursion of shrimp, octopus, clams and those dumplings, all residing in lobster broth. During an occasional break, I returned to land to sample the pork Milanese (potato salad, fennel, mustard) – as flavorful and unforgettable as its seafood counterpart. The whole experience was like a favorite dream, including the literal rêve chocolat (chocolate caramel mousse, chocolate cake, butterscotch cream, espresso gel). This would be the farthest thing from a simple dessert. I recommend getting as close to it, and The Gander, as possible.