www.marivanna.ru/en/
41 East 20th Street (between Broadway and Park Avenue South)
212-777-1955
Russian. In the mood for a fairy tale? Look no further than Mari Vanna, a woman of massive culinary talents who gladly opened her home, sharing warmth and Russian fare with all who entered. Her legacy is alive and well in modern day Manhattan, where you’ll find yourself cradled in St. Petersburg of the past.
My tasty time travel began with a perfect crab salad (baked tomatoes, avocado, arugula, garlic, thyme, olive oil) dressed in sour cream and tomato sauce. I then indulged in cheese pie (baked to order with two types, suluguni and feta). It was reminiscent of white pizza, only more mesmerizing. Their menu is temptingly expansive and I explored entrées from land and sea.
The fish was black cod-centric, (roasted fillet, tomato, ginger sauce) served beside potato croquettes which embraced yet even more cod. This was far from overkill, since the uncommon combination was joyously flavorful. Just as riveting, the beef shashlik (grilled filet, shredded cabbage and cucumber salad housed within a baked bread bowl). Any time you can eat the container is a bonus as far as I’m concerned.
Wanting to dessert as the natives do, I went medovik. A classic honey layered cake proving it’s customary to end the meal in a world of sweet deliciousness. Also in your orbit, a strolling accordionist, skilled in such tunes as Yesterday and I Just Called To Say I Love You.
I left convinced the Russian people know how to cook and how to party. Mari Vanna is one happily ever after you should not miss.
New York, NY 10003