www.esquinanyc.com
114 Kenmare St. (corner of Cleveland Pl.)
1402 Second Ave. (corner of 73rd St.)
200 West 55th St. (bet. 7th and 8th Aves.)
646-613-7100 all locations
Mexican. La Esquina is a party. Wrapped in a subterranean speakeasy. Hidden beneath the corner deli. Drop your name at the door. They’ll radio to say you’ve arrived and you’ll make your descent. Suddenly you’re inches from the DJ, hanging near the bar, waiting to be taken to your table.
They’ve got three locations; I chilled at the OG where the lights are low and the vibe is white hot. If you’re wondering if the food keeps up with the mood, si si si!
My initiation began with tortilla soup (smoky tomato broth, shredded chicken, queso fresco, onions, avocado, crispy corn strips). An abuela level, fork worthy creation.
Next, the queso fundido (melted mix of Mexican cheeses sprinkled with toasted pumpkin seeds and a drizzle of agave). It comes with a sidekick of chips, ideal for transporting that melted medley to your mouth. The seeds deliver an exquisite crunch while the sweetness of the agave makes this dish even more addictive.
I transitioned to two kinds of taquitos, bistec con queso (sliced rib eye steak, crispy queso Chihuahua, tomatillo salsa, cilantro, onion). And camarones blt (shrimp, garlic butter, bacon, pico de gallo, lettuce and chipotle glaze). That shrimp could not have asked for a more surprising or better backup.
To happily munch alongside this surf n turf, I solicited some plantanos nacho fritos (fried plantains, salsa verde, queso fresco). A truly generous portion of fried perfection.
Closing out the meal was the Mexican chocolate lava cake (banana run sauce, coffee gelato, pepita crunch palanqueta). Whoever conceived of this confection is a freakin genius.
Much like you when spending your night at the party beneath the street.