www.bartulix.com
25 Houston Street (between Mercer and Greene Sts.)
212-334-7320
Mexican. It’s no accident the lighting is low. And the playlist tentacles as eclectic as it gets. They conspire to deliver an unmistakable club vibe. A club that happens to have some of the most original and delicious Mexican food around.
My journey began with the tasty Tulix Caesar (masa crunch, anchovies, radish, pecorino) and atypical dressing that took it to a level beyond.
Also on tap, tostaditos. I sampled the shrimp cocktail option (mayo, clamato, pico de gallo, cilantro). Large and crunchy with provocative ingredients that’ll leave you wanting more. Had I not already committed to an entrée, I would have so signed on.
Then I tasted the boneless chicken al pastor and the mourning was over. This half chicken is corn tortilla stocked, in the exceptional company of pineapple jam, salsa guajillo, and cilantro.
I selected esquites as a side. An homage to corn, it arrives in a skillet with cheeses cotija and chihuahua, plus epazote, scallions and chives. There’s nothing like tasting something spectacular for the first time, and I savored the flavor with several more tortillas.
In a surprising change of nation, dessert took the form of German chocolate cake, coconut and seal the deal cinnamon ice cream. Together they brought the meal to a close as compelling as it began.
Under those low lights, grooving to the music. As good a noche as I’ve had in a long time.