L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele NYC

Italian.  L’Antica is full of surprises.  Enter and it appears modest in size.  Until you’re led to a space twice as large and not as casual.

I began with the gnocco fritto (deep fried pizza dough, burrata, prosciutto, arugula). Nothing like I imagined, it materializes as mini ham sandwiches, the gnocco nestled within. A compellingly original combination no doubt.

Next up, the eggplant app. An eggplant roll parmigiana in San Marzano sauce, brilliantly filled with fior di latte, basil and parmigiano. So good is this, I craved more the second I was done.

But it was time to move on, which I did with the maccheroni bolognese. This pasta always makes me think “kid”. But there’s nothing junior league about their parmigiano, beef and pork ragu creation.

Feeling fish-ish, I requested the branzino con melanzane e broccolini. It’s a grilled seabass fillet, actually two, with eggplant all’Uccellatto (more eggplant!), fresh roast tomatoes and broccolini with Mediterranean sauce.

Here no dish gets bogged down with portion control, excellent news when it’s all this good.

For dessert I went tiramisu (coffee-soaked sponge, marsala cream, cocoa).  And cannoli bomboloni (ricotta, pistachio, chocolate). Not only is that fun to say, it arrives looking pretty much like a golf ball.  Several in fact.  Then one bite proves this is indeed cannoli, size and shape be damned!

Unwilling to be outdone, the tiramisu does not debut as envisioned.  Out comes a mason jar, with contents as true and tiramisu fabulous as I’ve ever tasted.

So much about L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele rebels against assumption. Even the name.  Sure, it showcases pizza.  But that’s just a glimpse of their resumé.

Walk in the door and leave all expectation behind.  You won’t be disappointed.