Alaluna

Italian. Yes, all chefs pride themselves on the menu. But for Riccardo Orfino, there’s no denying innovation is his raison d’etre.

I began with the octopus, a dish I unabashedly adore. No doubt some of the thickest I have ever encountered, its freshness and flavor rivaling the impressive size. Adorned with upstate potatoes (smoked, no less), pickled chanterelle and garleek vin, this creation will set your palate on an exquisite voyage.

Remaining at sea, I couldn’t wait to indulge in the lobster and shrimp cacciucco. The focus of this light bisque – two fishes presented as cakes. An added bonus, the grilled focaccia destined for dipping in this supremely smooth, satisfying soup.

Chef’s next foray into creativity? The tuna lasagna, its bolognese presentation pure wizardry. With bechamel and parmigiano reggiano, spectacular as your imagination might conjure.

It wasn’t easy to bid farewell to the ocean, but zero regrets from my first taste of duck pappardelle. Highly recommended by the outrageously knowledgeable bartender and affable server, this green pasta with duck ragu was the personification of truth in advertising. Described as stick to your ribs, every bite its own nirvana-esque reward.

Clearly it would have been absurd not to explore dessert. If sorbet is your jam, I can attest to the chocolate and Concord grape. As all their sorbets and gelatos, they hail from Pamina Dolci & Gelato. More delicious frozen provenance there never was.

I next indulged in the apple crostata, a confection of apple crumble, crushed almonds and a sublime fior de latte gelato. If you’re feeling fruit tarty, this finale truly brings it home.

At Alaluna, chef Orfino and his contemporary Italian cuisine are on a wonderfully unprecedented journey. Lucky for us, we all get to go along for the ride.