35 West 20th Street (between 5th and 6th Avenues)
212-463-7890
Greek. Nestled in the Flatiron District, Periyali projects serenity that instantly envelopes you. The beckoning white surroundings, mellow music and knowledgeable, attentive service conspire to lower your pressure with every passing moment. This and you haven’t even taken a bite.
But wait.
The meal began with three dips (caviar mousse, grilled eggplant purée, cucumber with yogurt and dill). Accompanied by two plates of whole wheat pita bread, the ideal beginning.
Next, horiatiki salada (salad of tomatoes, feta, cucumber, red onions, olives and oregano). Colors burst off the plate, the flavor then proving it’s so much more than a stunning presentation.
Since the server made special mention of the oktapodi sharas (charcoal grilled, red wine marinated octopus), it seemed foolish to pass it up. Each piece was big and thick and tender as could be. The grilling truly sets it apart and when you’re done, there’s pita and table bread to gleefully sop up the marinade.
Then there’s the saganaki (crispy graviera cheese). It presents as a slice of pie, in all its abundant, beautiful glory, the tanginess as addictive as it gets.
And if you’re in a beefy mood, the keftedakia saltsa (Greek meatballs stewed in tomato sauce) is a medley of herbs that will truly thrill your every taste bud.
As you might suspect, the entrées are just as unforgettable. The lamb chops (paidakia thedrolivano) are charcoal grilled with blissfully giant wedges of roast potatoes and fresh rosemary.
Feeling filet mignon-ish? It’s perfectly prepared kabob style (charcoal grilled, with white rice and fresh, crunchy string beans).
Of course there’s a dessert tray; I was clearly beckoned by the ekmek kataifi. It’s phyllo dough. And custard. And whipped cream. And syrup. And about the most irresistible pastry I’ve devoured.
Periyali has your comfort and relaxation down to a science. Which is why they’re still doing their delicious thing almost 35 years later. Don’t waste a second.