www.pastisnyc.com
52 Gansevoort St. (corner of Ninth Avenue)
212-929-4844
French. Strolling into Pastis is like stepping into Paris. The white brick (glazed), the lamps (suspended, big and round), can be convincing. But what seals the deal is the food.
That first sip of onion soup gratinée is a magic wand, so quickly are you transported. The bowl is large, with cheese ideally tangy and a thick, satisfying hunk of bread submerged beneath. The next indulgence took the form of lobster salad (endive, avocado, lemon aïoli). The fish both generous and sweet.
From there, it was a quick hop to the steak sandwich (onions, Gruyère, aïoli). A carnivore’s dream, made even better by the joyfully obscene amount of fries towering alongside. The special of the house is bouillabaisse, a medley of shrimp, snapper and mussels. The seafood is exceptional and when the trio is gone, you can recall it fondly as you ladle your way to happiness with the remaining soup.
They showcase nearly ten desserts and I went full on crème brûlée (warm madeleine). As tantalizing as it gets, the ideal texture of an ice covered lake. With one quick tap of the spoon, you’re immersed in the City of Light. And Pastis is happy to take you there again and again.