345 East 6th Street (between 1st and 2nd Avenues) 646-852-6498 www.tablesidenyc.com
Italian. Tableside has a sense of humor. It’s apparent in the names of several of their dishes. One of my favorites, the Drunken Golden Bird (parmigiano reggiano crusted Bell & Evans chicken breast in a lemon and white wine sauce upon a bed of spinach). As it turns out, the flavor is as memorable as the deliciously inebriated poultry. Equally hard to forget, the Tasty Crustacean (homemade tonnarelli in a creamy lobster reduction sauce with lobster meat and a touch of brandy). But entrées aren’t all they understand. The Octopus And The Potato, which sounds like an amazing children’s book, comes to life with grilled Portuguese octopus, potatoes, black gaeta olives, celery and red pepper flakes. Not to be outmatched is Grandma’s beef specialty (traditional Italian meatballs in a San Marzano tomato sauce, topped with fresh ricotta). Grandma don’t play. Her meatballs are pure poetry. Also unsurprising, nearly every dessert is preceded by the word homemade. I chose the tiramisu which arrived in a cappuccino cup and is the gold standard to which all alcohol enriched, Italian sponge cakes should aspire. But you need not aspire to be here. Just come on by and you will be greeted with the most open of arms.