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Sessanta

60 Thompson Street (between Broome and Spring Sts.)  212-219-8119 www.sessantanyc.com

Italian.  Coming across an incredible new Italian restaurant is not unlike finding a four leaf clover.  Discover one and the wave of excitement and good fortune is undeniable.  Such is the feeling from the first bite at Sessanta. Ordering their marinated calamari, I had no idea its effect would be so profound.  In combination with puffed black rice, celery hearts and lemon, it is simply a mix of tastes and textures like nothing else.  Unforgettable in both crunch and flavor, I would swear I was dining in Italy.  As I then quickly learned, they are as accomplished on land as they are at sea.  The polpette di maiale (sausage meatballs, red peppers and Sicilian honey) is, without a doubt, another heavenly mosaic.  I am sure it will come as no surprise that they know entrees as intimately as firsts.  The roasted branzino with meyer lemon sits atop an herb and spring vegetable salad so compelling, it could be a dish in its own right.  But don’t get me wrong, the harmony is absolute bliss.  This is equally true of the evening, ensconced as you are in one of several spacious and stylized rooms, all the while attended to by a committed and gracious staff that doesn’t miss a beat.  How lucky can you get?