315 Bowery (corner of Bleecker St.) 212-254-0350 www.saxonandparole.com
American. I call it grey goo. Described like that, there’s a chance it might not automatically sell itself. But one taste of the truffled Portobello mushroom mousse with Parole whiskey jelly and you’ll be a fan forever. Who needs a fork when it arrives with a generous supply of toasty, crunchy bread (all the better to host, slice after addictive slice). They are also massively tartare talented here (tuna, yuzu, jicama, cucumber, radish, avocado, jalapeño, yellow pepper aioli) if that is your opener of choice. The server was well versed in all things Saxon + Parole, recommending several dishes such as pasta (ricotta gnudi) and any grilled meat – the restaurant’s claim to fame. The gnudi (fava beans, sweet butter, truffle peelings) dangles the possibility of a lobster add on. Say yes and you’ll in no way regret the commitment to this perfect plus one. If you’re feeling carnivorish, the Bavette steak (10 oz., Piedmontese beef all-natural grass fed, Rocky Mountains) is well worth its cross country trip. And should you crave a side, the French onion twice cooked potato (grilled corn, gruyère, brie, chives) is off the charts outrageous. Whether or not you start your meal sweet, it’s the only way to finish. There are several indulgences including the most brilliantly executed S’mores (warm chocolate pudding, graham cracker, marshmallow, whisky barrel smoke). I don’t know if it’s that last ingredient, but I felt as if I’d just toasted those marshmallows myself. This delicious flash of childhood would be criminal to miss. Saxon + Parole + You. AKA dining bliss.