430 Hudson Street (between Leroy and Morton Sts.) 212-960-3801 www.pioranyc.com
American. When an innovative restaurant serves a prix fixe, I instantly imagine the meal will be something special. Clearly Piora has absolutely no intention of proving me wrong. Their three course creations are so incredibly good, special doesn’t even begin to cover it. My experience took flight with market vegetables (variations, thousand island). They state not which. I could not tell. I do not care. The tastes, in concert, are as delicious as you can possibly dream (although I had never conceived of a symphony such as this). Another offering was hiramasa (yellowtail sushi with apple, basil and fresh wasabi), an equally wonderful way to start the evening. I could go on just as effusively about the second course, having experienced both the spectacular bucatini (black garlic, Dungeness crab, maitake, chili) and gnocchi (local mushrooms and fonduta fontina Val D’Aosta). Both are ideal entrees to the entrée, their lamb selection (with heirloom beans, artichoke and cassoulet flavors) as outstanding as all that had come before it. I assumed any of the desserts would be perfection. And the German chocolate mousse with butter pecan and coconut lime proved me right for the second time that night. I’d love to take credit for being so wise, but my only contribution was lifting the fork. And that is all it takes at Piora.