408 West 15th Street (between 9th and 10th Avenues) 646-869-8873 www.kolahouse.com
American. Music is like a really good view. You forget what a difference it makes until you have it. The choice of tunes at Kola House – a mix of mostly 70s, 80s and rap – sets a partying tone that is profoundly irresistible. I half expected people to get up and start dancing (or maybe that’s projection because I seriously considered doing it more than once).
The upside of staying seated is that you’ll be plied with a constant array of not at all commonplace creations. Their pickled shrimp is a salad composed with bittersweet greens, sweet peaches and a jalapeno vinaigrette. It’s an inspired innovation of textures, tastes and all around deliciousness. Also incredibly good – the soppresata meatball with eggplant ragout, cheese curd, and a nice, extra long piece of garlic bread to ensure nothing is left behind. The same strategy could be applied with the pita that accompanies the lamb tanjia (braised shoulder, labneh, pickled onion). The meat is juicy, plentiful and ideal for the overstuffed sandwiches you can joyfully create.
If you’re feeling pasta-ish, you might try the cavatelli (crème fraîche, roasted pancetta, parsley). Whatever you do, don’t skip dessert. Their apple crisp is grated and vanilla ice cream adorned, the stark contrast of flavors as well as temperatures conspiring to form a perfect union. Perfection is truly in abundance here, as reiterated by the service. This astounding attentiveness includes a desire to make you feel you’re the most important person in the room. Like there aren’t already a million reasons to boogie on down ASAP.