116 Avenue C (between 7th and 8th Sts.) 212-353-8000 www.kafananyc.com
Serbian. How’s your Serbian? Mine is regrettably nonexistent. In retrospect, I wish I’d learned a few words before going, like “hello”, “good evening” and “your food is freaking delicious”. At Kafana, you’re treated like they truly care. It’s evident not just in every dish, but their friendly, gracious hospitality.
I began with two traditional offerings – the gibanica cheese pie (phyllo pastry, feta cheese) and lepinja sa kajmakom (bread served with warm creamy cheese spread). The second is light and pita-ish while the pie is blissfully thick, all the better to revel in the feta. I next encountered the punjena pljeskavica (a stuffed Serbian burger with salad and fries). This bunless creation is a combination of minced pork and beef packed with ham and cheese – making it simultaneously flavor rich and the first literal hamburger I’ve ever had. Their chicken kebabs (pileci raznjici) are heaven on a skewer, perhaps more generous and juicy than any kebab in my past.
Dessert took the form of reforma (layered walnut sponge cake with creamy chocolate filling). Also new to my repertoire and definitely worth repeating. The meal is so good, the staff so warm and enthusiastic, you should definitely come to Kafana. But not before practicing a translation or two, like “that was incredible” and “see you again soon”.