236 Fifth Avenue (between 27th and 28th Sts.) 212- 683-2929 www.ililinyc.com
Lebanese, Mediterranean. So striking is the sight of ilili, it would be wrong to begin with anything else. This restaurant is a stunning ode to brown – in shades, textures and material each more eye catching than the next. Rich woods, sumptuous leather – every design element as much a treat for the senses as the meal itself.
Beginning with their hummus. The options are endless (lobster, jalapeno, lamb, shrimp, basterma, pine nuts), but I went bling free. It was delicious, made even more compelling when embraced by the warm, impossibly puffy Macy’s Day Parade sized pitas presented in its wake.
Next, an octopus encounter (grilled with harissa, squid ink labne and lime), one of many excellent seafood expeditions including tuna tatare (harissa, lemon, pita) plus plump and juicy black iron shrimp (jalapeno, garlic, cilantro).
Carnivores will be equally impressed here. The kebab kerez (lamb and beef meatballs with cherry sauce, kataifi, scallions) so fully flavorful. But nothing blew me away more than their warm eggplant (tomato, scallions, tamarind molasses). It arrives in chip form and could not be more spectacular if it were a bag of Lay’s.
Speaking of treats, make it a point to plan for dessert. Among the many options, you might try the candy bar of their own making (caramel fondant, fig caramel, sesame crunch, milk chocolate sorbet). It’s hard to imagine an ending with the power to rival that.
Like the style of ilili itself, it’s a tribute to textures and shades. Primarily brown. Completely unforgettable.