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Craft

43 East 19th St. (Between Park Avenue South and Broadway)  212-780-0800  www.craftrestaurantsinc.com

American.  Saying they’ve almost mastered their craft is like saying Streep has almost mastered acting.  They know exactly what they’re doing from initial encounter to delicious goodbye — but more about that later.  Not only was their greeting kind, but when I returned at a future date, they welcomed me back.  Clearly, they must keep track which I found extremely warm and flattering.  The same can be said of the room –   brown, spacious, and subtly lit.  Every enticing course is choreographed with a simultaneous reveal followed by a brief soliloquy describing each dish.  Their braised octopus with fingerling potatoes, celery and smoked paprika is, undoubtedly, one of the best I have had.  Also awe inspiring were the bass and broccoli rabe.  As for dessert, just close your eyes and point to anything on the menu.  Parting is such sweet sorrow yet, as you go, you are presented with a swag bag (aka a perfected pastry for an encore the following day).  Their performance is pure brilliance.  But it’s you who win.