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Boqueria Soho for pages

171 Spring St. (between Thompson St. and West Broadway) 212-343-4255, also Boqueria Flatiron 53 West 19th St. (between 5th and 6th Aves, 212-255-4160), Boqueria Upper East Side 1480 2nd Avenue (between 76th and 77th Sts., 212-343-2227)  www.boquerianyc.com

Spanish, Tapas.  Boqueria has three locations and one menu.  Why?  I can only imagine they don’t want to mess with mastery.  Everything I tasted was fan inducing.  So much so, I ordered one dish twice (shout out to the pintxos morunos).  These Colorado lamb skewers with pickled shallots and salsa verde were stunningly flavorful.

I also indulged in the gambas al ajillo (shrimp, garlic, brandy and guindilla pepper in olive oil).  When offered the opportunity to go gambas I will, and their interpretation rocked.  As did the pulpo a la plancha.  They grill the octopus, then adorn it with fennel and smoked pimentón.  It is not unusual to add potatoes, but their design is of the mashed variety and includes picual olive oil.  They grill their bread as well and rub it with tomato, garlic and olive oil.  It has multiple uses like dipping beneath the albóndigas (Colorado lamb meatballs, tomato sauce, sheep’s milk cheese).  You have that to look forward to after finishing this very generous and delicious dish.  Good things come in threes.  Like Boqueria.  Just choose one and go!