415 Lafayette St. (between East 4th St. and Astor Place) 212-726-7755 www.asiadecuba.com
Asian-Cuban. Do you believe in reincarnation? If not, you will surely change your mind having spent the evening at Asia de Cuba. After a four year hiatus following a nearly 15 year run in midtown, they recently reopened their doors on Lafayette. And while the neighborhood may be novel, the forethought, originality and care found in each dish is clearly nothing new to them. Their ropa vieja spring rolls — slow braised with rocoto sweet and sour — as well as the glazed black cod (orange mojo, avocado poblano purée) are positively addicting. The palomilla (flat iron steak) is ginger and papaya marinated with tatsoi, pickled vegetables, chili mojo and magic. Equally impressive is the array of homemade desserts, outstanding, eclectic and not to be overlooked. The tres leches de chocolate is both sheltered below and enhanced by an insanely innovative chocolate Szechuan peppercorn ice cream. Yet, the talent within these walls extends beyond innovation to scholarship. The waitperson, newly minted, could not have been more well versed had he been serving for decades. His knowledge was then rivaled by a level of warmth and consideration that only heightened the experience. The same must be said of the tables, generously sized and spaced, Latin background music and candlelit surroundings. Asia de Cuba. They’re back. And we are so much better off for it.