35 East 21st St. (Between Park Avenue South and Broadway) 212-913-9659 www.cosmenyc.com
Mexican. If the thing that most impresses you about a restaurant is the napkins, you’re in serious trouble. However, when you can say even they made an impression, that’s a different story indeed. And Cosme is different to be sure. One look at their profoundly innovative menu and you are guaranteed an exceptional night.
While the dishes have name recognition (scallops, lobster, King crab), the ingredients and preparation are positively Google worthy (aguachile, pibil, gribiche). Your phone will fill you in, but you won’t need it to tell you how rewarding each flavor is. Yet, what makes Cosme distinctive isn’t restricted to the kitchen.
It begins upon arrival, where you are not merely greeted but wished an excellent time. This sets the tone, reinforced moments later by an area invitingly lit with club like sensibilities. Even the tables are considerate, well spaced not just for room but good conversation. First up? I’d start with the napkins.