849 Sixth Avenue (between 29th and 30th Sts.) 212-201-4065 www.lamico.nyc
Italian. You walk in and there it is. The unmistakable scent of incredible Italian cooking. But that is just the first of several senses to be rewarded. There’s a palpable energy at L’Amico that makes you want to be here. It’s in the design, the tone, the animation of the crowd. And we haven’t even talked food yet.
You know when you glance over at another table and a dish seems so incredible, you feel compelled to cross examine the server? Such were the veal and pork meatballs “al forno” with garlic-parsley focaccia. Looks are not deceiving; this pairing was incomparable. There is also much to be said for the octopus (crushed fingerling potatoes, capers, pickled celery) which could not have been more deliciously executed. I was just as easily won over by the branzino (swiss chard, crimini mushrooms, meyer lemon and an exponential amount of flavor).
The respect they have for fish here is huge, as witnessed yet again through the pasta. The agnolotti (lemon-mascarpone) is truly in flawless company with scallops, lobster and shrimp. It would be negligent not to mention there’s plenty of sorbetti and gelati to go around. I only indulged in one of each (banana-passionfruit, salted caramel) but cannot say enough about both. Or the restaurant itself. A sensory experience of the highest caliber.