138 Lafayette St. (corner of Howard St.) 212-271-4252 www.lecoucou.com
French. Twelve years ago, an American chef opened a French restaurant in Paris. The food was so good, the experience so indelible, any return visit left me thinking how terrific it would be if he would do that here. Now he has. And it is. Not to oversell, but everything about Le Coucou is beautiful. The seamlessly choreographed open kitchen, artfully distressed high ceilings and backlit bottles at the bar are just a few of the compelling elements that comprise the stunning design. Something about being seated within these mellow walls inspired feelings of joy and I had not yet tasted a morsel. About that. Each course, each dish, each bite is a reminder of this chef’s wizardry and vision. I indulged in two salads, as outstanding as they are different. The first (tomatoes and peas refreshed with strawberries, pistachios) an unforgettable combination of color, texture and flavor. The second (lobster tail, basil, tomato, sauce lauris) a truly unconventional testament to everything a salad could be when brilliantly masterminded. The entrées, too, are otherworldly. Both the halibut (daikon prepared as choucroute) and lamb rack (eggplant, tomatoes, stuffed with “choulder and chard”) compelling and delicious. How do you end such a meal, one that sets the bar so incredibly high? For me, the answer was chocolate (twice). Their mousse au chocolat and pavé au chocolat (crème glacée au praline) are as much a treat for the eyes as the tongue. Clearly everything about this experience is. The sooner you get here, the better your world will be.