62 West 9th St. (between Fifth and Sixth Aves.) 212-353-8400 www.casaapicii.com
Italian. When I first landed at Casa Apicii, they had been open one week. While you might think that would mean a lack of revelers, this could not be further from the truth. The bar and tables were packed and it took exactly one bite to figure out why. Their fonduta (funghi misti con tartufo) is fabulous, flavorful and as fun to eat as fonduta is to say. Then there’s the polpettine (beef, pork and veal meatball with ricotta). Uno. Grande. Delizioso.
There is also the bucatini all’amatriciana (‘nduja, Sicilian oregano, pecorino) proving pasta is yet another course they’ve instantly perfected. If your wish is fish, the crusted cobia (tomato-stewed chickpeas, treviso, salmoriglio), while found at sea, is a taste of heaven. Before returning to Earth, you might lose yourself in the torte di noce or any of the other dolce they’ve designed.
The meal is unforgettable, as are the digs and service. They achieved in days what others aspire to for many years. And they could not be more deserving of it.