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The Waverly Inn

16 Bank St. (at Waverly Place)  917-828-1154  www.waverlyinn.com

American.  If you get the chance to wish upon a star, ask for an evening at The Waverly Inn.  It is hard to imagine a more perfect experience than this.  The dining room, awash in riveting murals, burnished seating and wood, every square inch filled with character.  Find yourself in the garden, and NYC is light years away.  Its red brick walls, crawling ivy, farmhouse shutters, ceiling fans, oversized plants and sweeping skylight create a botanical effect that is both placid and stunning.  I simply did not want to go home.  Every dish was novel, spectacular, and singularly delicious.  I began with the outrageously innovative summer melon salad (feta, chili, cilantro).  It is impossible to conceive of a more refreshing or delectable creation than this.  That is not to say you won’t be mesmerized by the Jonah crab cakes with tartar sauce and celery root coleslaw because they, too, are ridiculously flavor gifted.  The cold poached lobster salad with herb mayo is not your typical presentation, but cradled in a half lobster shell, the tempting greens practically levitating above.  Setting the bar in the stratosphere, this execution easily matches the creativity behind it.  Not to be outdone are the Colorado lamb chops with garbanzo purée, yogurt, marinated chick peas and puffed wild rice.  Both the chocolate mousse with chocolate fudge and dessert special (cherry tarte, crème anglaise, cinnamon ice cream) only furthered my plan to plant roots here.  It was all I could do to drag myself away.  So the next time you gaze up on a clear night, start wishing.  It is one of the best decisions you will ever make.