2 Lexington Avenue (between 22nd St. and N. Gramercy Park) 212-777-2410 www.maialinonyc.com
Italian. It’s taking just about every ounce of willpower not to begin with a discussion of ice cream. That would not be fair to Maialino, a premier Italian restaurant which happens to offer some of the best and creamiest I have ever encountered. Their unparalleled gelato speaks volumes about what you can expect from your meal, purely unforgettable from start to spectacular finish. I was awestruck by the insalata, composed simply of radicchio, citrus, parmigiano and balsamic. Who needs bells and whistles with a greeting this delicious and fabulously fresh? The polpo (octopus) is equally deserving of praise, seared with heirloom beans, celery and pickled shallots. Either finds the perfect follow up in brodetto di pesce, their seafood stew with tomato and toasted filone. This particular evening offered the chance to indulge in a pasta special (made even more special by the 1/2 lb. lobster in its midst). Just go with whatever you’re craving, because Maialino has achieved menu perfection, yours to discover from the first heavenly bite. Which brings us back to dessert. The coffee crunch and amarena cherry are light years beyond their nearest rival. And I would willingly trek to the ends of the galaxy for another scoop of each.