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Raymi (CLOSED)

43 West 24th St. (between Broadway and 6th Ave.)  212-929-1200  www.rayminyc.com

Peruvian.  If you’re in the mood for total TLC, you’ve come to the right place.  In fact, your mother would be hard pressed to make you feel more comfortable.  But first, the food.  Raymi has taken the slider and turned it into a delicacy.  Their chicharron spin (crispy pork shoulder, sweet potato, salsa criollo, and spicy mayo) is as addictive and delicious as it gets.  At least until having the causa (cold potato purée, aji amarillo, salmon, octopus, avocado and spicy mayo).  Then there are the mains.  An incredible lomo saltado (hanger steak, tomato, red onion) shares space with crispy fries and jasmine rice.  Now give that rice face time with egg, broccoli, ginger, char siu chicken, shrimp, Chinese sausage, scallions, peanuts and what have you got?  Arroz chaufa.  Not just the answer to the question but to your dining prayers.  Which is actually true of every dish they place before you.  Several staff are on hand to treat you caringly, including the gentleman who somehow seems to be everywhere, taking each order, checking back to make sure you are pleased, and ultimately wishing you the warmest of goodbyes — this attention and kindness sure to lead to several future hellos.  That reminds me, call your mother.