98 Rivington Street (corner of Ludlow St.) 212-466-1888 (also in Soho, 45 Mercer St. between Broome and Grand Sts. 212-966-9288) www.gallirestaurant.com
Italian. If this were a film, Galli would be that local place where people go to be happy. Their staff is cast to perfection, the server, sweet and kind as could be. The less principal players are just as invested – pouring, clearing, and doing all they can to assure you an excellent time. Cut to the meal. A feast for more than just the eyes, it delivers everything you would hope. Their baked clams are amazing (my one regret choosing six instead of twelve). It’s a terrific lead in to the chicken parm, so large and delicious I was tempted to give it a Standing O. The oven roasted branzino is equally flavor filled, its herb marinade transporting the catch to a whole new level. Although this fish requires no accompaniment, the asparagus and cherry tomatoes give a flawless performance. When it was time for dessert, the waitperson raved about their tiramisu which totally lived up to the reputation. I also tried Mario’s berries served with whipped cream. The assortment is varied and, like every other dish this evening, larger than life. Galli is truly the perfect neighborhood spot. But if isn’t in yours, DO NOT let that stand in your way.