86 W. 3rd St. (between Thompson and Sullivan Sts.) 212-673-3783 www.ilmulino.com
Italian. Fried zucchini. Aged parmigiano. Salami. Mussels. Bruschetta. And the menu hasn’t even arrived. The quantity, no doubt significant, pales in comparison to the quality, a testament to the extraordinary nature of what has been placed before you. The freshness of the bruschetta alone deserves its own paragraph, the flavor a gift that is simply unrivaled.
Next came a recitation of specials — numerous, descriptive and mesmerizing. It could not be more apparent that anything selected would be otherworldly. Such was their shrimp and scallops rollatini with fontina cheese, the grilled octopus, the sea bass livornese. Sensing it would be unforgivable to miss the actual menu, I experienced the chicken parmigiana. And it was an experience as it fills the dinner plate, not just in diameter but absolute perfection. I could go on about each creation individually, but really there is no point, because every dish is masterfully realized. You may have had them elsewhere, but never like this.
How do you know you’ve hit gold? When you end the meal with tartufo and the whipped cream is nearly as unforgettable as the dessert. Il Mulino has been spreading pure bliss since 1982. If you haven’t had the privilege, do yourself the greatest possible favor and indulge, pronto.