39 East 58th Street (between Park and Madison Aves.) 212-750-5588 www.lavony.com
Italian. I have to thank the Pope, without whose urban presence I would have dined downtown as usual. Lucky for me, his arrival led to Lavo. You will find it in the 50s. But, once inside, I would swear I was seated two or three miles south. The space, crowd and service all bring a below 14th Street sensibility. I cannot, in fact, speak enough about the server who, with such knowledge, enthusiasm and all around nice guyness, made an incredible meal even better. Not easy, considering the brilliance begins with garlic bread and tomato sauce arriving moments after you do. I could have gone home happy then, but would have missed the baked clams oreganato, yet another completely ingenious ode to garlic. Still, classics aren’t all they do, proven by the chopped salad “Louie” (assorted vegetables, house vinaigrette) topped generously with lobster and shrimp. They are really good with fish, witnessed again in the grilled branzino panzanella — ciabatta, heirloom tomato, arugula. This and their chicken parmigiano are listed under House Specialties which is all that need be said. Beyond that, they are well versed in steak should you happen to be in the mood. Could it possibly get any better? Yes it could, because you have not yet had dessert. Among the countless temptations, I was drawn to the Oreo Zeppole, described as double stuffed with malted vanilla milkshake. Who puts oreos inside a zeppole? Clearly the smartest person on earth. Actually the second smartest, since you will take first prize when you decide to make the pilgrimage here.