12 East 12th Street (between 5th Avenue and University Place)
212-380-8660
American. If I could only say one thing about Gotham, it’s how incredibly welcome you feel there. And that speaks volumes, because the meal is nothing less than magnificent.
The hosts greet you enthusiastically, then management and the waitstaff repeatedly let you know how glad they are you’ve come. The tone is set and you haven’t yet broken bread.
About that. Theirs is an unadorned warm focaccia with cultured butter. More like focaccia unplugged. Its simplicity inversely proportional to the sheer pride baked into every bite.
Then there’s the yellowfin tuna tartare (ginger-yuzu vinaigrette and shisho). Presented with togarashi crackers, ideal in size and heft for tartare scoopage.
Another appetizer offering, the cavatelli. You’ll find it amidst mushroom duxelles, shelburne cheddar, and black trumpet mushroom. This is alchemy unsurpassed.
And the entrées? The Berkshire pork belly is nothing less than regal in the presence of the loyalest of subjects – braised red cabbage, pink lady apple and mustard greens.
Should yours be a hankering for halibut, there’s hails from the Atlantic with artichoke, salsify, riesling sauce, and a spoon. A strategic piece of silverware to ensure you don’t miss a drop of this heavenly dish.
For dessert, I indulged in the coffee & chocolate (malted dark chocolate, crème fraîche, white Russian ice cream). It, too, was otherworldly.
But then, the dessert special, apple tarte tatin.
The size of a small pie, presented whole for viewing. Then whisked away, only to return sliced and accompanied by two nearby dollops of vanilla ice cream. I took a few bites of the tarte, then gave in to the thought of à la moding. I didn’t believe it would be possible to enjoy this dish any more. Until I did.
The entire magical evening takes place in redesigned environs. New artwork, fabulous lighting, the wonderfully cavernous room bathed in gentle hues of pink.
So civilized. So warm. So delicious. So everything. So put it on your agenda as soon as you can.